... I would cut the heads off a couple hex head screws and thread them into a couple of the mounting holes in the bell housing creating a couple of guide studs. That way you can finagle the trannie a bit w/o letting the weight rest on the disc. ...
This was handy advice my dad and I figured out on our own when I've installed my trans a few times. The transmission jack is definitely helpful as in my case at least the back of the shifter pad runs into the back of the hump in the floor, so you have to pull the trans back a bit, then tilt down, then back a bit, then down more, etc. until it clears the clutch disk. The main problem with the 833 is that it's round and non-symmetric on the bottom, so it doesn't like to sit on a trans jack plate very well. Even chained to it it like to flop a little side to side.
All that being said, I've never had any luck trying to install an engine and transmission together as a unit. The only car I've had any success doing it on was a front wheel drive, so that's basically cheating, lol. You have to tilt the engine so far to get it to clear the radiator core support and tunnel that we didn't have enough adjustment on our tipper thing you put on the engine hoist (whatever it's called) to get it done when we tried on a 69 Charger. If you can take the core support and front end off the car it would be way easier to go that route, but I've never had that luxury.