1973 duster 340 will not start- no start

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beerboy

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ok after storing my 73 340 duster, since November, I am having a fire up issue. car was running great when put away in an unheated garage. full tank, stabil all that good stuff, battery was on a tender and the car cranks , with oil pressure, but refuse to fire. getting gas in carb. no spark. ok, I changed the ballast resistor. still nothing. where would you guys look at next, and what order??
orange box shot?
coil shot?
distributor cap cracked?
plug and coil wires are pretty new
bad ground on box? worked before
bad connections under dist. cap?
any other wires I should look at?
getting frustrated so whats #1 to look at and so on
thanks much for any kind of help:sad1:
 
As I suggested in your other post, pull the cap and check the rotor, cap etc for corrosion.

It's an easy step.
 
Simple process of elimination, get a test light, turn on key, see if you have power at ballast rist. should have done this first. If power is there, follow the power to coil, then to dist, if no power at BR, you have to go under dash to key switch.
 
with that garbage *** orange box on it thats where i would have looked first.

if you have an extra box laying around (i always have an extra box and ballast in the trunk) then give it a try.

i'd check grounds and connections. no telling what may have corroded over teh winter..
 
which box would you go with? I hear the chrome is for hi reving race motors. so whats best for street use
? thanks
 
as I was saying , put an inline tester in plug wire and got nothing. could a coil or ecu box just go from the cold or from sitting all winter? seems crazy to happen, still have to check cap and rotor
 
The orange boxes are known for having issue. Short life if they even work right about of the package. The Chrome box is fine for a street car but I would think the quality is the same as the orange box.
 
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