Rapom's Rocket - just another Duster build thread

Ok, the last part of the electrical (besides the dash redo) is to set up the system for a trunk mounted battery and master disconnect switch. This diagram is based on one FABO member Crackedback has posted many times to show how a 1 wire alt. system can be wired up. It has been completely aborted by me to show how I'm setting up my system using a stock 2 wire alt. I know he had a diagram up at one time for a 2 wire system but I was unable to locate it this morning. PLEASE NOTE: I am NO electrician, I do pretty well at it but I don't know this will work until the car is up and running. In theory it looks like it should, but.......

• All power is distributed thru the start relay. The start relay gets it's power from the battery thru the master disconnect switch.
• The start circuit is energized by turning the ignition switch to "start" (blue wire), which closes the start relay which energizes the Ford solenoid (green wire) which connects battery voltage to the starter. The starter solenoid has been jumped (purple wire) so no signal is required from the starter relay. When the ignition switch is release back to "run" the Ford solenoid opens cutting battery voltage off from the starter.
• The CDS (constant duty solenoid) is closed by the ignition switch at "run" (lite blue wire) which connects alt. output to the battery for charging and system power.
• Opening the disconnect should cut power to all circuits killing the motor and alt. output.
• The start circuit should only be hot when the ignition switch is at "start". In the event that the disconnect switch is opened the ignition circuit power is cut and the motor and alt. output should die. The alt. charging wire should be dead (no back feed from the battery) as the CDS will open when the "run" circuit looses power.
• Only the cables connected to the battery positive (to the Ford solenoid then to the master disconnect switch and charging wire back to the CDS) should be hot with the disconnect switch opened.

I got all my components off of Ebag with free shipping which was much less than I could source them for locally. The Ford start solenoid (US made) is a standard Ford item off anything 60's - 80's. My master disconnect switch is by Pollak and is a HD unit rated for 150 amps continuous (be careful if your running a high output alt. as there are a lot of disconnect switches out there with very low amp ratings) and my CDS is built for golf cart applications and is also rated for 150 amps continuous duty (way more than my stock alt.)

There you have it kids.... isn't electrical wiring fun????