TRACKBAR, anyone here run one?
I have to disagree on not using TRE's for a panhard bar. I've looked at it from every angle that I can think over quite some period of time and I see no reason that they can not be used. If they're good enough to steer with, they're good enough for a panhard bar. Compared to an SRE they *might* be a little less precise, but if a person is considering this option they are more likely working with a street or street/track car and not a pure race car. For a pure race car I too would go with SRE's because the dirt & grime issue isn't really an issue as usual race prep will deal with it. For a street driven car it is rare to non-existent that they see that level of prep.
Most ideal would be that that the tube's OD & ID are sized such that the builder could tap the tube directly for the TRE ends, but that would require that they be able to first find and then be able to afford a set of LH & RH taps that usually are some obscure diameter & pitch. I don't see any problem with sizing the tube such that the adjuster sleeve will tightly slide inside the tube and be welded into place at the end and with a couple Rosettes. That is no different than buying tube ends for SRE's and welding them to a tube. If the TRE's chosen happen to have threads that there are tube ends made for, then I'd use them instead of the adjuster cut in half but as I mentioned TRE's can come in odd threads and finding tube ends that will work is not too likely. For instance, I know of no tube ends in 11/16", they go from 5/8" right to 3/4" I can't remember ever seeing an SRE with 11/16" threads, they too jump from 5/8" to 3/4", but that is the size of the threads on the TRE's on my '65.
One end in rubber is a good idea from an NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) point of view. It will damp out any road noise & vibration being transmitted up the bar to the chassis.
Could use one of these for some NVH reduction (They're urethane rather than rubber, which isn't quite as good at NVH reduction):
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50&products_id=183
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/images/adjuster_plain_large_multi_sampleimage.jpg
Or the straight version:
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zenc...id=168&zenid=43ece8f42cb41a9080f2c489059423df
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/images/adjuster_plain_large_fixed_sampleimage.jpg
Some circle racing car links:
http://portcityracing.com/search?Keyword=panhard
http://www.colemanracing.com/Chassis-Suspension-C14.aspx
http://www.afcodynapro.com/store?search_api_views_fulltext=panhard
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search.html?query=panhard
I have to disagree on not using TRE's for a panhard bar. I've looked at it from every angle that I can think over quite some period of time and I see no reason that they can not be used. If they're good enough to steer with, they're good enough for a panhard bar. Compared to an SRE they *might* be a little less precise, but if a person is considering this option they are more likely working with a street or street/track car and not a pure race car. For a pure race car I too would go with SRE's because the dirt & grime issue isn't really an issue as usual race prep will deal with it. For a street driven car it is rare to non-existent that they see that level of prep.
Most ideal would be that that the tube's OD & ID are sized such that the builder could tap the tube directly for the TRE ends, but that would require that they be able to first find and then be able to afford a set of LH & RH taps that usually are some obscure diameter & pitch. I don't see any problem with sizing the tube such that the adjuster sleeve will tightly slide inside the tube and be welded into place at the end and with a couple Rosettes. That is no different than buying tube ends for SRE's and welding them to a tube. If the TRE's chosen happen to have threads that there are tube ends made for, then I'd use them instead of the adjuster cut in half but as I mentioned TRE's can come in odd threads and finding tube ends that will work is not too likely. For instance, I know of no tube ends in 11/16", they go from 5/8" right to 3/4" I can't remember ever seeing an SRE with 11/16" threads, they too jump from 5/8" to 3/4", but that is the size of the threads on the TRE's on my '65.
One end in rubber is a good idea from an NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) point of view. It will damp out any road noise & vibration being transmitted up the bar to the chassis.
Could use one of these for some NVH reduction (They're urethane rather than rubber, which isn't quite as good at NVH reduction):
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=50&products_id=183
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/images/adjuster_plain_large_multi_sampleimage.jpg
Or the straight version:
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zenc...id=168&zenid=43ece8f42cb41a9080f2c489059423df
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/images/adjuster_plain_large_fixed_sampleimage.jpg
Some circle racing car links:
http://portcityracing.com/search?Keyword=panhard
http://www.colemanracing.com/Chassis-Suspension-C14.aspx
http://www.afcodynapro.com/store?search_api_views_fulltext=panhard
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search.html?query=panhard