Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

Worked my butt off all day and still couldn't get the tranny all the way in &%$#*%*^!!!!

I'll have to do this in two posts. I welded the new torque shaft lever in place. I also stuck the cross member spacer back into the cross member so everyone can see where it lives and how it gets in the way when you try and cut through the cross member. I removed the crank adapter bolts and reinstalled them with red locktight. Then I installed the adapter plate. If you read my previous posts you'll know NOT TO USE the larger tapered headed bolts in the two lower non-threaded engine block holes. TCI instructions say to use a larger bolt but the larger bolt keeps the tranny from bolting up flush. If you'll notice the TCI adapter plate has long studs that are used to bolt the tranny to the plate. These long studs make it impossible to install the tranny while the engine is still in the car.
The other day I wrote about how I had to check the engine block to tranny alignment pins to make sure they don't extend more than 1/4". In the pics you can see why. The adapter plate is 1/4" thick and usually the pins on the engine stick out more than 1/4". If they are longer than 1/4" they end up hitting the backside of the alignment pins that TCI put into the adapter for the 2004R (pics 5 & 6). I had to hammer the driver's side "in" about 1/8" to get it correct. Also in pic 5 & 6 you can see how the passenger exhaust pipe comes very close to the adapter. I knew this was going to be a problem and had cut extra metal off the adapter in the area where you see the silver (magic marker ) line. Last pics show adapter plate installed.


PS - I'll tell you why (in my next post, later tonight) I wasn't able to install the tranny today even though I had it up in there up against the adapter studs. Will make another post with the rest of the pics in a while.

Treblig