Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

OK, as Paul Harvey used to say....Here's the rest of the story . The TCI adapter plate comes with very long studs to hold the tranny up against the adapter plate. These long studs force you to have to raise the tranny much higher in front during installation. If you installed the tranny on the ground like "Mopar To Ya" did it wouldn't be an issue. But when the engine is in the car it poses a list of other problems that are unforeseen. The long studs, the larger flexplate/ring gear, the custom dual exhaust and the BOP 2004R...these are some of the problems that kept me from finishing the install today.
First the long studs: I had already removed the distributor cap, unhooked the battery and lowered the engine until it was just touching the drag link. I also had to bend the pinch weld where the firewall attaches to the tunnel because the 2004R hits on either side (10 O'clock and 2 O'clock). No matter what I did I couldn't get the tranny high enough in front to align the studs. The 2004R has the extra BOP bolt pattern, as such, it comes with a high point at the top center of the housing used in Buick, Olds and Pontiac. This top center bolt is not used on the TCI adapter but the trans housing still has that 2" protrusion in the top center of the tranny that hits the firewall when you try to raise the it high enough to align the studs. So you either have to lower the back of the engine below the drag link or raise the front of the engine by removing the motor mounts. NOT SURE WHICH WORKS BEST???????????

Second: Chevy have larger flex plates/ring gear. This one hit me in the back of the head!! The larger ring gear makes/forces the starter further out (away from the engine). If you have 2 1/2" exhaust like I do the factory starter won't fit. After a trip to O'riellys and $100 later (97 Dakota starter). Problem solved!!

Custom exhaust: When they put in my exhaust I had a 904 trans in the car,. The 2004R is fatter and doesn't quite fit up between the pipes.

If I can get the engine angle down a little more it should go in there but those long studs really make it difficult.
If anyone can tell be the best way to get the engine to come down below the drag link OR raise the front enough to get the correct angle I would appreciate it!!

treblig