Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

Oh no, I get it. Cost and value are always concerns. I've never bought a new car and I'm 52 years old now. I've always spent my "extra" money on my two old hot rods.

I know my limitations when it comes to doing certain things mechanically. In my case, I opted for professionally built transmission and paid extra to have the adapter ring installed at Extreme Automatics. I got out the door at around $2800 delivered with some necessary accessory items. I bought the bellhousing from Reid directly $350 delivered, B&M shifter from Summit at around $200 and then after reading for years how important a high quality torque converter is, I opted to go with a high dollar ($800) billet unit from Precision Torque Converters. So without figuring a gear change in my 8 3/4 plus a new driveshaft, I'm already in at over $4k.

FWIW, there's a lot of guys putting the Modern Hemis in these old Mopars. The transmission options for them have been somewhat limited, pricey, require major surgery and often require computers to control them. This set-up would bolt right up to a Modern Hemi with a slightly different torque converter design, but they would have to use a manual transmission computer or aftermarket EFI system.

Yes, It's a lot of money for a rather cool and somewhat easy to install drivetrain. Then again, I've had the car 10 years and have slowly been upgrading it into what I have always wanted it to be. It started out as a slant 6 car that was solid, but needed a lot of upgrades to truly be the hotrod I envisioned when I picked it up. I did the brakes, large bolt pattern wheels, suspension, re-enforced the chassis a bit and swapped in a tired EFI 5.9 & used 727 a few winters ago. I saved my money and am stuffing a 408" stroker in at the same time as the transmission. Those are a little pricey to build these days too.

Here's a cut and paste from the thread I started a few weeks ago regarding the measurements.

"OK, thanks!.
I used a straight edge on the output shaft and hooked my tape measure to the face of the bellhousing . I measured 29 1/16" from the bellhousing face to the end of the output shaft.

When I measured from the bellhousing face to the end of the aluminum tail section where the seal goes, I got 28 3/8".

I found this on the web. It's hard to see, but the stock length appears to be 28 1/4" from bellhousing face to the end of the cast tailshaft. The upper measurement in the photo relates to the centerline of the rear mounting bolt holes, which is shown as 27 15/16".

I'm assuming is 1/8 of an inch longer than a stock 200R4, but my measuring could be off too.

I'm going to go out in a bit and drop the torque converter into it, so I can see if the mounting tabs for the flex plate are going to end up in the right location. I've already had to ship it back once because it didn't clear the added depth of the tone ring style flex plate I run for the EFI."