starters keep getting to hot need help
Start by COMPARING starter voltage to battery voltage while cranking
TO DO THAT "rig" a big long clip lead that will reach from the trunk to the front "for testing."
Make these tests first cold, then with engine warm. So you'll have to repeat all this again when warm
Disable the ignition so the engine will not fire
1......Clip your long lead to the battery POSITIVE post. If possible, use a helper to "stab" right directly into the battery POST. Run the lead up front, get "under there" and clip another lead carefully to the starter main post. Crank the engine and take a reading while cranking. Post it here. It should be LOW, very LOW, the LOWER the BETTER.
2......Now move the lead to the battery NEG post, if possible directly to the post. Up front, hook your other probe to the engine BLOCK. Repeat the test, reading while cranking. This time the voltage reading should be even LOWER, and again, the lower the better.
In either tests above, more than a couple of tenths (.2V) of a volt means you have a voltage drop problem.
3.....Now, get a helper to stab the meter probes directly into the two battery posts. Crank the engine at least 10 seconds and read while cranking. This time, the higher the better, and if the battery is below 10.5 volts while cranking, you either need a heavier battery, or the battery is not getting fully charged, or the starter is dragging badly. Have the battery load tested.
4....It would be wise to get the car up and running, warm, battery "normalized," and check voltage right at the battery with the engine running at a good fast idle. It might be, that the battery is running low, and never fully gets charged. With engine (regulator) warm, the battery voltage should run 13.8--14.2, and in no case below 13.5, nor above 14.5
Do the above test first with all accessories off, and again with headlights, heater, whatever you can "run" turned on.
What kind of starter are you using? If you have an older "wound" field starter, it's time to go to a "mini" starter.