RPM's

MobileCustoms said
I followed the recurving directions from the Mopar Muscle article and it seemed to work well. I need to put some new timing tape on the balancer and check it again to see exactly where It ended up but it definately runs and responds better now.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0301_mopar_electronic_ignition_system/

My place is right off hwy 52 (about a mile) in Inver Grove Heights. You will probably drive right by on your way to the Mopars In the Park show.

Thanks for the link! I'll read thru it and attempt it.

PoisonDart74 said
You can do it yourself in about 10 minutes, with a HEI re-curve kit from the local-yocal parts store. Use the light springs, should get you close.

Take the distributor out, take out the screws in the housing that hold the baseplate, take a thin nail or something and knock out the roll pin that holds the shaft at the bottom plastic retainer, wiggle the plate up, unscrew the vacuum advance, remove it, and then slide the whole assembly out so you can work on it comfortably.

I'd say 16-18 initial, 32-34 total by 2500RPM, then plug in vacuum advance to a ported source and total timing should be around 50-52 max for best economy .

It will feel wayyyyyyyy more responsive.

Ive dissassembled the dizzy before, so this shouldnt be a issue. I'll read thru that article and go for it.

nm9stheham said
Put a vacuum guage on ths car and take it out for steady speed, level ground cruise at 60 and 70 MPH and record the vacuum readings. Then check where your power valve setting is; you may be in the power valve at cruise.

Just one thing about the lower gears and taller tires: you'll lower the RPM and then get more TC slippage. So, there is only so much you can gain from that tactic with the converter you have. IMO, you are kinda stuck in a certain corner of the 'operating envelope' there with that TC.

The ignition and the carb need a lot of work IMO before doing anything else. Time to not suck at carb tuning anymore!

BTW, you need to read your plugs by running at whatever running condtion you want to check (WOT, cruise, etc.) for as long as you can and then IMMEDIATELY shut of the ignition and simultaneously shift to neutral, and coast to a stop, pull sthe plugs and then read them. Anything else is a waste of time.

Checking the plugs that way would be very tough to do since I dont really want to cruise down the road for how ever long and then pull the plugs on the side of the road. I live in a suburb and there really is not any country roads around to do this type of check. City life is not ideal for this. I appreciate the idea but I dont think this is a option.