Install and Break In Procedures for New Camshaft Help

Make absolutely certain you have this thing "ready to fire and run" out of the chute

I use the EOIC valve lash method, because you don't have to remember anything specific for certain engines. (The Mopar valve chart won't work on traditional Ford firing order, or the "new improved" GM one, and it won't work on V or inline 6's either LOL)

EOIC means to bump the engine around until

The EXHAUST just starts to OPEN and set the intake on that cylinder

Bump until the INTAKE opens and is nearly CLOSED then set the exhaust on that hole

TIMING

There is two ways to make sure the dist. rotor is on "no1" ready to fire (compression) and not no6

A..........One way is look at the valves but you have to look close. With the TDC marks aligned, either no1 or no6 will both be open "about the same" and the other cylinder both valves will be closed. The cylinder with closed valves is ready to fire. Don't get fooled

B.......The second way is to stick your finger in the no1 hole, bump until you start to feel compression, then bring the marks "on up" BUT DO NOT align them to TDC. Instead, stop at about 15-20 BTC (20 for a "hot" cam, 10-15 BTC for a "stocker.)

With the engine at this point, stick the dist in so the rotor is approaching the corner of the cap tower for the no1 wire. Rotate the dist. CW which is retard, then back CCW for advanced until.................

If you have points, until the points just open. Use a light or meter

If you have breakerless, until the reluctor is aligned with the center of the pickup coil. "When you get" good at this, you can "wiggle" the dist past the pickup / reluctor trigger point, and with the key on, it will generate a single spark

IF YOU do this right, it will fire and run with no further "diddle" on the timing

YOU CAN also check the timing with a light "on the starter." What you do NOT want to do, though, with a new cam, is crank it for extended periods on that new cam.

You want it to fire, run, and get it up to the break in RPM

Make sure the coolant is full and "burped." Easy way is to fill to the heater nipple next to the stat housing, then hook up the hose.

Make sure the battery is fully up, charged

Make sure the fuel is primed and "ready." Many guys suggest filling the carb through the vents with some sort of squirt device.....bulb, ....squeeze bottle, what have you

So, I have an MSD distributor and box. Any changes to procedure with those, or about the same? Also, electric fuel pump so that should take care of the priming of the carb.

The EOIC method, is that when the intake is back on and stuff? Could I set the preload with the intake off and watch the cam?

Thanks for the tips!!