Faulty battery, bad alternator, or both (photos)

Ah yes. I remember you mentioning the rigged test lamp. I made one, twisted a lead together on the two terminals and connected that to the battery negative terminal. I used the ground terminal on the light and connected that to the block ground (green clip in photo).



I followed your directions, step by step, and here are the results.
I made sure everything was off, doors shut, and no key ignition. After hooking everything up - I got no light.

Pulled ECU Connector loose - no light.



Disconnected the (brown) Coil positive wire - no light.



Pulled the Voltage Regulator connector - No light.



Double checked and made sure nothing was on.
Made sure everything was off except the key.... no light.

I noticed you said at the beginning to make sure the key was off and at the final step, you mentioned to have the key on. Both ways produced no light.

What is weird, and I'm not sure if this was supposed to happen with the test lamp rig, but with everything hooked back up, test light still hooked up - I put the key in "on", none of the gauges worked and no dash lights came on....and the test lamp did not light.

I know when things were working normal, the oil light would glow red before starting the car and the temp / fuel gauges would move and were functioning correctly.
This doesn't happen now.

Not sure if that's related, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

Does everything sound correct up to this point?