Faulty battery, bad alternator, or both (photos)
I just wanted to quickly share with you all how well 67Dart273's rigged test lamp method works.
Believe me, if you follow his directions, step by step, and can comprehend what he's telling you, then you'll most likely be successful at whatever electrical problem you're facing.
I hooked up my test lamp. Battery Pos. (+) cable was hooked up to the battery, then one lead coming off the headlamp ground terminal was hooked up the engine block ground. The other lead was hooked up the one of the other terminals of the headlamp (i just picked one) and clipped to the Battery Neg. (-) terminal. The battery negative cable from your car is NOT hooked up.
Now,
I know that my "problem" is somewhere in the path from the ignition wiring from the steering column....to.....the under dash wiring. Seeing as these white connectors previously gave me trouble on the engine side of the car, I opted to get rid of it altogether (as seen below). I made temporary crimp connections from the under dash wire harness to the steering column wire harness, and tested continuity of each wire.
To my surprise, all but one wire showed continuity. The thicker 12guage Black wire. My wiring diagram shows this wire going from the steering column, to the fuse box, and branching off onto the wiper motor.
I decided to try out my test lamp to confirm I had a short and it worked perfect.
I stuck the key in, turned it to the back position and "no light".
I then went back to the BEGINNING position (where you first put the key in) and clicked the key to the 1st position (I believe this is ACC?), again.... NO LIGHT.
I clicked it over to the next position, the one that is before cranking the car over, (I believe this is RUN) and boom - there was the light in my face.
So now I just need a little clarification of the actual key positions vs. the wire diagram so I can chase the short down that is in the dash harness.
Here is how the service manual lays this out & here is how I'm interpreting it:
My interpretation:
1st Position - ACC
2nd Position - RUN
3rd Position - START
Here is the wire diagram:
Looks like we're (....or "I'm"), one step closer to getting this sorted out! Thanks for your help!
I just wanted to quickly share with you all how well 67Dart273's rigged test lamp method works.
Believe me, if you follow his directions, step by step, and can comprehend what he's telling you, then you'll most likely be successful at whatever electrical problem you're facing.
I hooked up my test lamp. Battery Pos. (+) cable was hooked up to the battery, then one lead coming off the headlamp ground terminal was hooked up the engine block ground. The other lead was hooked up the one of the other terminals of the headlamp (i just picked one) and clipped to the Battery Neg. (-) terminal. The battery negative cable from your car is NOT hooked up.
Now,
I know that my "problem" is somewhere in the path from the ignition wiring from the steering column....to.....the under dash wiring. Seeing as these white connectors previously gave me trouble on the engine side of the car, I opted to get rid of it altogether (as seen below). I made temporary crimp connections from the under dash wire harness to the steering column wire harness, and tested continuity of each wire.
To my surprise, all but one wire showed continuity. The thicker 12guage Black wire. My wiring diagram shows this wire going from the steering column, to the fuse box, and branching off onto the wiper motor.
I decided to try out my test lamp to confirm I had a short and it worked perfect.
I stuck the key in, turned it to the back position and "no light".
I then went back to the BEGINNING position (where you first put the key in) and clicked the key to the 1st position (I believe this is ACC?), again.... NO LIGHT.
I clicked it over to the next position, the one that is before cranking the car over, (I believe this is RUN) and boom - there was the light in my face.
So now I just need a little clarification of the actual key positions vs. the wire diagram so I can chase the short down that is in the dash harness.
Here is how the service manual lays this out & here is how I'm interpreting it:
My interpretation:
1st Position - ACC
2nd Position - RUN
3rd Position - START
Here is the wire diagram:
Looks like we're (....or "I'm"), one step closer to getting this sorted out! Thanks for your help!