tale of $5.28 wasted....
They will if you know how and use the "Right Stuff."
Also, since before both of use were born, "Nokorode" (actual brand name) makes an electrical "additional" flux. It's a great help in some of these cases.
You must get them CLEAN down to fresh brass and copper. Scrape, using a knife, etc.
(On my 67, the brass contact fingers for the IVR were not making contact with the PC board, I had to solder bridge them across)
Also, you can "get back" away from the contacts, scrape down to the copper PC traces, and just solder right to the board
You need some solder MADE FOR electrical work What Radio Shack sells is not all that bad for this purpose
Below is mine. I did not spend too much time being "showey." I also soldered on to the board traces in several places to get rid of the factory pins. A couple of mine were broken, and many loose. I elected to use Molex style connectors instead of the original
In the bottom photo, the black wires are grounds which are run off in a pigtail, bolted to the column support. That is how these wires were soldered, just scrape through the coating, down to clean copper beneath.
Heat and tin the copper trace. Heat and tin the wire, then lay the wire on, heat, and solder the two together.
The blue / white is ignition / 12V coming into the cluster and the IVR. In my case I used an RTE replacement which still "plugs in"
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714669337&stc=1&d=1383154832
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714669336&stc=1&d=1383154832
They will if you know how and use the "Right Stuff."
Also, since before both of use were born, "Nokorode" (actual brand name) makes an electrical "additional" flux. It's a great help in some of these cases.
You must get them CLEAN down to fresh brass and copper. Scrape, using a knife, etc.
(On my 67, the brass contact fingers for the IVR were not making contact with the PC board, I had to solder bridge them across)
Also, you can "get back" away from the contacts, scrape down to the copper PC traces, and just solder right to the board
You need some solder MADE FOR electrical work What Radio Shack sells is not all that bad for this purpose
Below is mine. I did not spend too much time being "showey." I also soldered on to the board traces in several places to get rid of the factory pins. A couple of mine were broken, and many loose. I elected to use Molex style connectors instead of the original
In the bottom photo, the black wires are grounds which are run off in a pigtail, bolted to the column support. That is how these wires were soldered, just scrape through the coating, down to clean copper beneath.
Heat and tin the copper trace. Heat and tin the wire, then lay the wire on, heat, and solder the two together.
The blue / white is ignition / 12V coming into the cluster and the IVR. In my case I used an RTE replacement which still "plugs in"
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714669337&stc=1&d=1383154832
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714669336&stc=1&d=1383154832