Why not cook marshmallows on my under dash fire?

Ok. I bypassed the amp meter. Dropped the column pulled all of the wires going to it and rewired the fusible links with the appropriate gauge wire with new links. However I did not run it through a voltmeter yet. I just have them spliced. I pulled all the wires going to the black fuse box and inspected every single one and installed all new glass fuses. The only thing I didn't do that the article said to do was drill through the bulk connector to run your red wire.

Now, with that out of the way, I still have the same problem. I have power at both sides of the coil.

New condenser, new points, new ballast, new coil x2, new voltage regulator.

I checked all the grounds at the voltage regulator and ballast.

I called a friend of mine and he asked about a little "bug" that a Grey wire plugs into at the manifold on the passenger side. I found the Grey wire that runs along side the alternator and coolant temp sensor wires, unplugged. No clue what wire it is or what is actually goes to.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, DK

You need to learn to read a diagram. I'm not being mean or sarcastic, I mean "that's a fact."

The grey wire to the "little bug" in the rear is the oil sender wire.

If you have the key in "run" and you have voltage on both sides of the coil, it means YOUR POINTS ARE OPEN or "open" electriclally, IE dirty and not making contact, internally broken distributor wire, whatever. Points are a simple switch to ground.