MRL Performance
Well-Known Member
Here is the box. Doesn't look like HEI to me, but.......... It works!
MRL Mild 440
- Thread starter MRL Performance
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I'll see if I can find some. It's completely built now. I was thinking maybe upgrading later on down the road. Herbert Performance offers these if that helps.
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHYSLER-EARLY-HEMI-ROLLER-SOLID-LIFTERS-TEV-HP-SET-OF-16-HD-331-354-392-/170971188918?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cead4eb6&vxp=mtr"]New Chysler Early Hemi Roller Solid Lifters TEV HP Set of 16 HD 331 354 392 | eBay[/ame]
But they don't have pressurized rollers. I'll look and see if I have a good picture of the block without lifters in it.
MRL Performance
Well-Known Member
Those look just like the SBM lifter, so ours might fit. Man, beware of them, I have seen some bad failures, tiny little rivet holding on the link bars.
MRL Performance
Well-Known Member
I changed the adjusters on the Hughes rockers from Ball style to cup style for 2 reasons.
First, they don't get enough oil to the cup on the pushrod and they tend to burn up pushrods and adjusters. We just had a BIG issue with that. Have any of you seen the tops of your Cup style pushrods turn brown or blue??? LACK OF OIL! Period! This is a Big issue with high spring rates and/or high RPM.
So running a Ball/Ball pushrod that oils thru will help eliminate that all together. There are custom made oil thru ball/cup pushrods, but they are $$$$$ and I have budgets to work around, so this is a much less expensive option.
Second is harmonics. A oil filled pushrod will not vibrate as much as a hollow one. Think of it this way- hit a hollow tube with a hammer and what happens? It rings, thats vibration. Now fill that tube with a liquid, say OIL, and hit it. What happens? Thud, no ring, no vibration. Thus a more stable valve train. And it helps to keep the pushrod cooler and the adjuster cooler and well lubed. That translates to less valve lash adjusting because things don't wear out as much.
Does this make sense?
That's why I asked you. If things work out, I will give you a call.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Mike are you about ready to play with the Gen III Hemi's yet? I have a 6.1 head you can play with.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
there was a box between their original box and that one that i remember..
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Nice work again Mike! That's one hell of a box of parts he dropped off. 
And people thought I was nuts for running hollow pushrods even though they said I didn't need it. Hummmmm
I have a 354 Hemi block that is bare now. Would you like me to take pictures? What angles?
MRL Performance
Well-Known Member
Yes Please! Any angles that show how they go in. And could you get a center to center bore dimension as well.
Thanks!
HRR688 FBO Ignition Box
All FBO Ignition Electronics carry a Limited 3 Year Warranty
from Date of Purchase to original purchaser (1 Year on Coils)
44KV Out Put
Built In Rev Limiter Externally Adjustable
Start sensor technology to increase Coil Voltage when cranking for quicker starts
No Ballast Resistor
6061 Billet Al. CnC Machined Housing
Bolts in Original Mopar Mounting Holes
Plug & Play to Stock Mopar Electronic Wire Harness
Self Diagnostic System with LED OK Indicator
Triggers Off Any Magnetic Pick-Up Type Distributor
American Made by Skilled American Craftsmen
Boxes Machined in Missouri
Terminals Made in Nevada
Circuitry built in California
Assembled in Florida
Easy Replacement for Ford Duraspark, IH, AMC, Early Nissan or any other 4 pin electronic ignition.
Ok I am going to jump in here. ( sorry late to the game). This is my engine. I started talking to Mike about 2 years ago on this project. I initially called him about purchasing a set of his solid roller lifters because I wanted lifters that would pressure lube the roller. During that time I had an associate that was going to build the engine for me but he had just moved all his machines from one place to another, which I didn't know at the time. Long story short I almost didn't get the heads, block, crank and piston rods back. So anyway I made a comment to Mike about wishing he was closer and he says "I'm only a few hours up the road". I sent him a list of everything I had and he worked up a price. A year and a half went by and I finally get everything lined up. Send him an email he says same quote bring it up. So my dad and I load up the truck on a Saturday and north we head. Mike was patient and educating for me on some different things. Now here is the kicker he was willing to meet us on a Saturday both for drop off and pick up which helped me with not missing work. Anyway this is the first engine I've had "professionally built" and I'm sure some would say why not do it myself. I've done a few and honestly it's something I've kind of always wanted. The overall experience was very good plus I got to spend some time with my dad on the trip, even though it wore him out spending 12 hrs on the road. The only catch is my dad wants to drive the car when it's done. I figure at 73 he's not going to do anything with it that I'm not.
One more picture. By the way I am going to use the FBO box. Would I miss a few HP and couple Ft/lbs of torque? Not really but I figure why not. If it's more efficient on that set up so be it. By the way I plan on weighing this before installing just to see how close it is to a factory style small block.
JoesEdge
Well-Known Member
I'm impressed with how much vacuum is pulls. That seems to mean it's power brake booster friendly. I'm used to small blocks and that cam seems aggressive. Does it pull so much vacuum because it's a Big Block?
Also, 12's for A/F is great for power but since your customer wanted more street ability would the engine run as well if the A/F ratio was closer to that magic 14.7 mark or more (which a vaccum advance distributor too of course)?
I ask because now I'm thinking of not rebuilding my 360 and going with a Big Block instead as a "to school and back or work and back" daily driver.
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