Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

Dad dropped by again to get help with these "new fangled electronic devices" and wanted to talk more about the turbo setup. "It's just not gonna work Dave, I don't care what people say. I tried it with a twin supercharger setup on a Hemi Firepower for a boat, and it just didn't work, the only way to make it work is to put a carburetor, then the turbo, then the intake" you'll find this setup just won't work. Caburetor venturis are not designed to operate under pressure, you should just put a throttle body and 2 injectors on it and then it would work. Carburetors won't ever work for turbo like that"

I know he's just going to have to see it working before I ever hear the end of it... :happy1::glasses7:

In other news, the U-pipe, and the last of the exhaust flanges showed up today from Jegs. Also my other piece for my turbo hat popped up. This is going to be a cool build, and I think if my math is correct, I'm at $530 for everything so far.

WIth the next purchase I make of the 255 fuel pump, a holley boost sensitive regulator, a wideband bosch sensor and gauge, fuel line, downpipe material and a reducer to go from the 2.5" cold side tubing to the 2" turbocharger outlet, and some kind of 3" filter, I'm looking at a cart cost of $425

SO BASICALLY:
I met the $1k goal, but there will be some brass fittings I'll need to purchase likely, and then the actual work that needs to be done by a welder since I lack the tools to do that.

And then I can assemble a list of things I have to do from there: Not in any order.

- Drain oil, install filter sandwich with oil gauge line, and feed line, then mount wix on top.
- Install fitting on oil pan for turbo drain OR on rocker cover if the turbo winds up being higher than expected, then replace oil.
- Reassemble Hangar 18 carb when it gets here and clean it up
- Install new 18* limited dizzy when all parts are in place
- Install other valve cover with new gaskets
- Remove manifolds, reinstall decked blue exhaust manifold
- Remove intake manifold and repaint while it's off. Adapt Holley 350 to base.
- Have welder assemble aluminum for carburetor hat
- Have "J" pipe made when nearing completion likely unless I can measure out precisely where it goes
- Have dump pipes made from wastegate to meet downpipe
- Cut radiator support for piping. Two simple rectangular shaped cutouts on each side to allow a 90* connector to enter the engine bay.
- Cut and flange the rest of the piping to fit
- Install return, and fuel pump on frame rail, run fuel line to engine bay, install regulator on back firewall near valve cover
- Boost reference everything that needs to be boost referenced.
- Some other stuff I'm probably forgetting