One wire lock-up, 4 spd automatic w overdrive into A-body.

jbc426 said
Test fit the engine/trans and as Treblic predicted, the cut is in the exact spot his was. What a pleasure to lower the car onto the engine/trans rather than stuff it in through the hood opening. Way faster too.

Now I have to decide if I want to cut out the corner and flip it around using it to fill in the hole, or (Plan B) cut the entire corner off and weld a flat plate back on it to cover the hole plus weld another flat plat on the inside of the floor extending a few inches past the newly cutaway section of the car to create a layered effect.

I guess I will see how well the part I cut off fits back into the hole in the crossmember. If it doesn't come out fitting well, I will go to plan B. I way weld a plate inside the car just as an extra strengthening attempt. I f done right, it should be stronger than it was when I started.

I am going to move one of the crossmember bolt holes over about an inch, as it is right inside the area that has to be cut. I want to re-use the inner tube, so I'll drill and cut carefully.

I don't think you'll be able to simply flip the section that you cut out because it is not symmetrical. You would need the mirror image of the one you cut out for it to fit properly. There is very little left (to weld onto) on the front edge of the cross member after you cut out the section. That's why I welded the plates in between the cross member and the body. Although you could get one larger piece of 1/8" steel plate, shape it to fit into the void between the cross member and the body. let's say a piece 8" X 8" or whatever will fit. Then you could weld it (1/8" plate) to the cross member then weld the plate to the floor. You would get tremendous reinforcement that way and spread the stress over a larger area. The larger the area that you spread the stress over the stronger the result.
I'm just making suggestions, if I had build a high horsepower motor I would have shaped a larger 1/8" plate to fit in between the floor and the cross member to better handle the stresses on the torque shaft support.

PS - remember that the hollow piece of pipe inside the cross member is attached to the other hollow pipe. It's basically one long 10" piece of 1 1/2" wide strap with the end curled up into cylinders. Like the end of a leaf spring except it's curled on each end and welded into the cross member. It makes it very difficult to remove because it pretty heavy metal strap and it's surrounded by the cross member.
Have Fun!!!

Treblig