Aluminum Head advice needed

jdga80 said
The performance now is unknown. I drive it to our local ⅛ mile track right down the street from my house. I ran it a couple times and it only ran 8.5 due to a slipping gear in the 727. I've since rebuilt my transmission at tech school with a nice TCI kit, a 2400 stall, turbo action reverse manual valve body, and ratchet shifter. I really only want to hit a 7 with it. The engine is pretty mild with a 270ish cam, TORKER II intake with 2½" spacer, Holley750(4150), headers, 3" exhaust with cutouts/

Honestly in the 7s is doable with what you have, provided it's in good shape and tuned properly. You might want to run it with the new driveline stuff and get some baselines. Also make sure it's consistent, and tuned properly in terms of timing and basic carb setup.
Staying with the "get new heads" theme - With what you have I don't think you need to get into porting unless there's budget money for that. From the "in tech school" line, and remembering when I was in there - money's an issue. Forget the Super Stealths or Vicor heads. I'd avoid the Prolines too. I like the Stealths, they are the cheapest option I'd go with, but you will have to spend to get them in a condition for me to call them ready to install. Keep the valves, repalce the seals, retainers, locks, and springs with some to match your cam. The RPMs are a little better - I'd only replace the springs, the rest of the hardware is good. Both manufacturers should have the valve jobs re-done. If you don't know what cam you have, pull it out and either get the numbers or measure it. If you're going to replace it, get something a little bigger - in the 230° @ .050 area.