Engine rebuild choices
Alright, thats the kind of thing i was looking for, any suggestion on brand and type?
I like the Speed Pro hyper pistons because they don't require the special file fit to the rings that the KB pistons do. Also for rings, lets clear something up. They are ALL cast. Saying "chrome" or "moly" simply means the coating applied to the top ring.
If you order cast rings, you are going to get a plain old non coated cast top ring, which you don't want. Plain rings haven't been used in the industry in a long time. They use moly rings in nearly everything now. This is probably one reason when you tear a modern engine down that there is still cross hatch in the cylinders.
While it's true, chrome rings are hard rings, as long as the cylinder is prepared properly, they won't be any harder on the engine than a moly ring. They just require a different finish on the cylinder wall. If the cylinders are not finished for chrome rings and you use them, that's when you can run into premature cylinder wear. Every internal combustion engine in airplanes uses chrome rings. I don't think prop planes would be flyin around with them if there was a problem.
The moly rings are more forgiving to things like cylinder imperfections. So, if you are going to do a basic re-ring, and simply hone the cylinders, moly rings are what you want. Moly rings are tough and hold up very well. Though they take a little longer time to seat because the moly coated face is harder than a standard non coated ring, their benefits far outweigh uncoated rings, IMO.
As to which brand ring, it really doesn't matter, because they are all made by probably only about three companies anyway and rebranded. What I always do is pick the cheapest moly ring and go with it. Don't look them up by application. You'll pay more. Go on the Summit site and look them up by specific bore size and by their width. The width will depend on which piston you choose. Just get the width the piston requires in the correct bore size and choose the "low to high" price option and get the cheapest ones. That's how I've done it for years and I always pay less than if I by for the make of engine. If it has Mopar attached, it's automatically more money.
