My single turbo Wayfarer Ute build
G'day mate, your setup is looking good, how is the clearance with the 4" pipe and the wheel at full lock? I've got a dummy engine in a mockup engine bay and it looks like a 4" pipe would be close to touching the tyre at full lock. I guess it depends on tyre size and how low you have your car.
I run the 6530 on my turbo 318 and Wardys spot on the money with setting it up, ill add a few things I did.
-I used a factory chrysler lean burn 318 dizzy which is locked from the factory (no advance mechanism)
-I set it up at 38BTDC and locked it there, to check this get it in the ball park like Wardy said, but check it with an adjustable timing like to verify its real timing it will usually need to be moved a few degrees back or forth.
-Depending on what dizzy you use rotor phasing can be an issue, ie. if you lock your dizzy at 38deg you have to make sure you don't get cross firing when pulling too much timing.
This is my graph below hope this helps your setup, I'll explain it briefly,
I run a 3 bar MAP sensor, so it reads 0 to 45, 0 being full vacuum, 15PSI being Atmosphere (WOT in an N/A engine) and 45 being 30PSI (Boost)
Top graph is the "boost retard" used for all engine running and bottom is "RPM retard" which pulls timing just for cranking/starting
It shows that when I'm at cruise (Full vacuum) 0psi the MSD doesnt pull any timing so its at 38 degrees.
NOTE: I bought a generic 3 bar MAP of Evilbay and the scaling in it was off out of the box so it read atmospheric pressure as 17psi not 14.7psi as it should. In most aftermarket ECU's you can rescale the sensor in the ECU software but the MSD is a very basic setup and you can't rescale the sensor to suit, so in my graph 17psi is atmospheric pressure or WOT on an N/A engine.
Timing gets pulled when it reaches "atmospheric" to 32 degrees BTDC and i dont pull anymore timing til it gets to 3PSI it then pulls timing vs Boost as showed in the graph.
Before i road tested the retard under boost, I setup an air reg with a gauge (shop compressed air) and connected it to the MAP sensor with the engine running at idle i applied pressure (to mimic boost pressure) to make sure it pulled timing out and verified with a timing light. Easy way to make sure its pulling timing.
Hope this helps if you have anymore questions ask