did some welding now no start condition.

1........It would be pretty damn handy to actually know what you are working on, or did I miss that?2.......Have you actually checked spark at the coil wire, how do you know it's spark and not fuel?3......Have you made any voltage checks, IE what exactly have you actually checkedA......Make absolutely certain the ECU is grounded MUST BEB.....Wiggle the ballast connectors, and the ECU and distributor connector. Work them in / out to "feel" for tightness and to scrub them clean.C.....Make some voltage checks. Turn the key to "run" and with the meter grounded to the engine, probe the ballast to find the highest reading. There should be two with high readings if a 4 pin ballast, one of the 2 if a 2 pin. Should be "same as battery" voltage.D....Check coil NEG terminal voltage. Should be quite low, perhaps 1/2 voltE....Check coil POS terminal. Should be substantially below battery, perhaps 5--10 voltsF...Remove the distributor connector and get the connector end going to the firewall. Try grounding first one, then the other pickup wire. One of them should give you one "snap" spark out of the coil wire.Dearly hope you did not clamp the welder ground onto the engine block.G....Remove the cap, inspect the inside of the distributor, for carbon, grease, water, spark damage. Inspect the rotor.Inspect the reluctor / pickup for strike damage, rust, debri. If you can get a .008" brass feeler and check the reluctor gap. "Feel" the shaft for side play and wear
Key turned to on position - coil side 1.1 + coil side 4.4 Ballest mounted on driver side fire wall was 4.5 and 9.8 with key turned to on position. 4 prong plug going to orange box was 10.5 on two posts, the battery may be a bit low I had had to turn lights and hazards on when it was being towed. The little silver relay on the drivers side fender I'm not sure what it's called but it's where the battery power is hooked reads 12.1 with key off and 11.7 with key on. I'm not sure what you mean when you said to pull the dist plug apart and ground the fire wall side, do I just need a wire or something and touch the post and then touch it to a ground on the firewall somewhere, and do it to each post and one should get a spark?The distributor is pretty new, I have had it a couple of years but it has'nt got many miles on it I did buy it new. It's the mp electronic ignition. And it all feels tight no wiggles. I am getting gas I can hear my electric pump and it fills my see through fuel filter and I can see gas in my carb through the little level windows. The car ran great before I crawled under it to weld in the frame supports and that's why I was thinking the welding had something to do with it is all. So with these readings I'm not sure where the problem is. Do they all seem about right other then the voltage is a little low? Am I missing something?.. It all seems to be getting power where it's supposed to I think. Other then grounding the distributor plug does it look like it all checks out? I did pull the dist cap it did'nt look like there was anything out of the ordinary I cleaned it up just in case though.