Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

I tried with someone acceletaring it a bit, no dice with the soapy water. My exhaust manifold gets pretty hot the instant the car is started, so that may be a factor to it dissolving so fast. Luckily, the header paint has held up through several heat cycles. It did not melt off like the previous attempt I did with the white manifold. That peeled off and melted within one cycle.

At this point I'm under the assumption no matter how much the wastegate is adjusted, it's just full open. Hopefully the new wastegate and J pipe setup will solve that. Right now I'm digging into the carburetor aspect.

There's 70 jets already installed, and a regular powervalve.

The problem I'm seeing, is the idle circuit is good. The car idles well, and the timing is set to about 0-1* advance while idling. Vacuum advance is disconnected for now. Trying to get a read on everything that happens with each system so I know what will effect what, if you know what I mean. It was too bright to test my mechanical advance throw yesterday, so I couldn't really tell what it was. Also the intake piping there now gets in the way. I'll test it out tonight when it gets dark. I'm hoping that I adjusted the throw on the governor low enough. I believe the problem is when I move from idle, to power, the car leans out, and stumbles, unless you mash the gas a bit - then it moves from slow to moving ok, and goes to a 13.5ish afr. If you push the gas GENTLY, the car leans out to a 19-20afr and starts stumbling and hesistating till you let off, then MASH it. Basically, I can't get moving slowly, I have to drag race from a stop sign if that makes sense. I'm thinking the problem lies in the accelerator pump arm, could it not be delivering enough fuel on a push? OR is this something else.

Should it be that the mechanical advance alone stops at 18*? Or should mechanical and vacuum combined stop at 18*?

I know before I could get about 32* almost out of the vacuum, but obviously at a certain point when the carb comes under boost, I'd assume the vacuum advance plate closes again, or slowly returns to center?

The vacuum advance seems just as adjustable as the governor. It looks like I could weld that throw closed a bit too. Or do I let it go or leave it disconnected?

Before turbo, the slant liked idling at about 12* initial, but now that it's 0 the idle circuit feels sloppy. Is there a way to leave it somewhat advanced, then cause it to move only 6* degrees out under the mechanical advance? That would still give me 18.