For those using Sebring convert seats-how did you brace the floor pans.

I have a set of Sebring convertible seats but looking for ideas on how to beef up the floor pans for extra support since these seats have the integrated seat belts. Ultimately trying to hash out whether I go with the Sebring seats (already have modified seat tracks and holes drilled in floor pans but will need more supports) or have the 73 charger seats I just picked up get new foam, new hard back covers,recovered and run the old style lap and shoulder belts.

I cut and re-welded the bench seat humps flat, then welded in 1/8"x3" flat steel across the floor to include the mounting hole areas on both inside floor pan and outside (underneath).
I went all the way across on the rears and 3x4" squares on the fronts. good luck! -pauly

lee g said:

I have a set of Sebring convertible seats but looking for ideas on how to beef up the floor pans for extra support since these seats have the integrated seat belts. Ultimately trying to hash out whether I go with the Sebring seats (already have modified seat tracks and holes drilled in floor pans but will need more supports) or have the 73 charger seats I just picked up get new foam, new hard back covers,recovered and run the old style lap and shoulder belts.

Click to expand...

mine were pretty flat since I used a 73 rear floor pan and had to bridge the hump cutout using flat stock (18gauge 12"'16" )to let the seats mount in the stock position

I did mine the normal way for older cars. I used a 4" x6" rectangle of 1/8 " plate and welded it to the floor pan. it also was welded to the rocker panel drop in a couple palces on the out board sides, the inboard side was done by bending the 4" wide strip of 1/8 the same shape as the tunnel and welded in to the tunnel drivers inboard front side to passengers side inboard front. same for the rear mounts . it isn't moving anywhere. I could have gotten away with just the (8) 4" by 6" plates bent to fit the floor pan since the belts are anchored to the seat frame instead of the floor like hardtops. since the outboard sides do weld directly to the rocker panel drops and the seatbelts locate on that side too! rears were mounted using the sebring cross bar from the convertible and welded solid to the riser bar from the old convertible boot well. I cheated and used 1/2 angle iron to back weld nuts to so I coulld thread in bolts like thew original sebring setup THEN drilled holes to go through the angle iron and floor pan+ 1/8" bracing.(4"x 6")

Anyone have some pics of this mod. A picture Is worth a thousand words.

Thanks for the inputs. I left my bench seat riser in place like it was from the factory but I made a bracket out of uni-strut (used by electricians) to replicate the angle and then welded it to the seat frame after I cut down some of the excess. I then welded 1/4" thick x 3" wide flat bar to make the bracket for the seat to bolt to the bench seat riser. It's secure to the seat and heafty mounts to connect to the floorboard. I am 6'2" and I still have pleanty of head room. I had thought fo bending some flat bar/plate to match the transmission tunnel hump and weld it from the the drivers side to the passenger side seat mounting points. Then the pulling force should be spread through the floor pan and transmission tunnel.

I used BMW M3 convertible seats that also have the shoulder belt integral with the seat. I made my floor pan flat and used 2" C channel under the floor pan that I tack welded to the floor pan then full welded the channel to my subframe connectors.