Need advice on body & paint $$$$$

You can break down the cost of painting a car, to the same tune as your other expenses and it will make sense to you, after you've budgeted how much time has been sunken into each piece of the process.

Up until May of this year, I was restoring cars for a living, full time for a shop.

We charged a minimum of $7k for body and paint, if the car needed any kind of rust repair, because of the sheer amount of work involved on a car.

I just finished assembling a new back half on a '70 AAR cuda. There was nothing, behind the rear window channel, except for frame rails.

I can tell you without any doubt, that AMD makes reasonable parts, but they are absolutely in no way, ready to assemble on to any car. The flanges needed cutting, a few parts needed adjustment and tweaking, like the decklid that had too much arch to fit the same contour of the deck filler, etc.

Once you've ground every spot weld and you have taken care of any hidden rust or other corrosion, you've got any ugly metal straightened back out and weatherproofed, you are ready to start tackling the task of getting those quarter panels aligned perfectly with the doors, deck filler, deck lid opening, rear body, etc.

When you replace full quarters, especially on both sides, you are looking at alignment on basically every single panel on the car, because it all follows the quarter panels, as they do not adjust once in place and you need to have enough adjustment in the hinged and bolted panels to get the correct gaps.

More often than not, even with brand new panels, gap adjusting with minor edge welding is needed to get a good gap.

To anyone trash talking a $10k paint job that includes the painstaking process of replacing full quarters or even rust repair patching;

If you think you can do it, do it yourself. This is not an insult. This is the mindset that I took on and that is exactly what I do. I don't pay. I do it myself. It takes some practice, but if you want to save the money, spend the time and get comfy with a face shield and earplugs. It is all nasty work. Sanding body filler is loaded with talc/ chalk and gets more airborne than sawdust. You will be wiping it out of your eyelashes and sweating pools, if you do it right, with a two foot longboard.

Its easy to forget when terms like "body shop prison" are used. People watch too much fuckin' TV and assume that its easy work or some sort of magic. No. It doesn't just take years worth of screw ups to know how to do it right with enough confidence to charge someone for it, it burns more calories than a PX90 workout. I lost 40lbs in 3 months doing a complete paint job, 2 years ago, over the summer. I clocked out at work and worked until 9pm every night for 3 months, until it was color sanded, polished and put together, and I didn't even have the task of full panel replacement.

Even though I had no major collision to deal with and only typical rust, I still had to remove every single panel, replace the hinge pins in the doors and do a ton of gap correcting, because the factory stuff was that ugly.

Pay the man his 10k or get ready for a trial of patience and your physical endurance.
I absolutely LOVE this reply! I LOVE IT! As a guy who studied Auto Body Collision Repair and Refinishing in the early 80s I couldn't have explained it better myself. That was in the easy days of single stage paint jobs! Wet sanded polished clear coat paint jobs were unheard of back then. It was hard work then and its 10 times more complicated now with the new paint systems and just the equipment alone, the quality paint gun is $300 and up, the industrial size 2 stage air compressor needed to supply air for a modern paint gun and air tools can be $2000 at the least and up. Many people who become interested in auto restoration assume that they can go buy a Sears 5 HP compressor for $200 and be set unfortunately are very wrong. Single stage and especially the oiless cheap compressors are NOT designed to operate or supply near enough air to operate a sandblaster, HVLP paint gun, or even a budget priced DA sander. They are simply nailer, stapler, tire inflators, etc. Definitely not for the auto shop. The prices of modern base clear paints are 10 times the price of a gallon of acrylic enamel with reducer of the 80s. I hate to say as much as I am interested and love to do body and paint work I have to admit its way above me now. When I learned it at vo-tech, wet sanded, polished, glass smooth paint jobs were a thing of the future. All we had was lacquer, acrylic, or synthol (synthetic) enamels. I remember 1 gallon of paint, 1 gallon of reducer, and a pint of hardener was around $80 back then. It was exciting to walk out of the paint supply store with a box of EVERYTHING needed to do a complete a paint job was less than $200. 2 part epoxy primers weren't an option. Lacquer primer surfacer (fill primer) was the big thing. Body filler today is so much different than back then. Better materials mean better quality jobs but also mean 10 times more money. To me I feel like progression has ruined the hobby for many people such as myself. Gone are the days of doing your own body/paint work.
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