340/mag360 exhaust manifolds
I think the drives side stub might interfere with the crowded confines on that side. I noticed that u used a tight radius pipe at the exit of your manifold. If I'm incorrect please educate me ! If you think those might work let me know. Worried the starter , torsion bar ,brake valve would be in the way.
I read and enjoyed your thread on 200r4. I have always thought the way to go was with the adapter. Unfortunitily you did not have my previous experience wt TCI. Back in the late 70s we worked with them on racing transmissions. Even got sponsored trans from them. Power glide stuff behind a 383 chevy stroker. We always had to fix everything. Ended up sending all their stuff back. We thanked them but never went back. I may use their adapter like you did but will use your thread to fix the problems. Quality control
Your opinion please on the stubs. I could always put the bungs a little further down stream.
Well, like I said, they are 2 1/8"....all my other stub pipes are 2 1/4" with the correct flared end. You didn't say if you needed bungs on both sides, I always thought you only put a bung on the passenger side. That said, you could move the bung, either way you'll need to get it done. It's probably easier for you to buy the 2 1/4" stub pipes with the correct flared ends and get the bungs put in the place that is best for your application.
The driver's side on my Barracuda (like all A bodies with the 340 driver) does require a super tight radius
"mandrel bend" pipe just above the torsion bar.
Everyone also knows that the taller your motor mounts the more room you have above the torsion bar!!! I've been thinking about selling that piece (super tight radius 180 degree) as well but most members want to do their own. For my Barracuda I had to order a piece of 2 1/4" super tight radius J bend and cut it up as you see in the pic of my driver's exhaust. If I were to do it again or make one up for a member ( I am a welder) I would buy this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270970340096?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
and cut it into two pieces and sell each half for $20 and/or weld it onto the driver's 340 stub pipe then sell it already to go. I'm throwing in more pics of the driver's side going past the starter and the TCI plate
(FYI - I should have cut off more of the adapter plate around the starter area leaving more room for the exhaust to exit!!!!) There was plenty of room on the driver's side except for the one spot where the driver's manifold exits just above the torsion bar. But with a piece of super tight radius pipe it's pretty easy!!!
PS - The reason I used the TCI adapter was very simple...it is the thinnest adapter plate I could find. The thicker the plate the more you have to cut into the upper cross member. The thicker the adapter plate the more it pushes the trans toward the rear running it into the upper cross member (on both sides!!!). TCI is 1/4" thick, everyone else's is thicker. If you don't mind cutting more off your cross member then you simply buy the one you want. In fact, I don't think I had to cut on the passenger's side of the upper cross member at all but if the adapter plate had been just 1/8" thicker I would have had to cut on the passenger's side. As it was I had to remove (cut off) an unneeded ear from the 2004R to clear the cross member on the passenger's side for it to clear.
Also in the pics you can see the header gasket ( between the down pipe and the manifold). It's a 2 1/4" ID 4 hole gasket. I couldn't find a two hole gasket with the correct ID so I used a 4 hole, you can see the extra two holes sticking out 90 degrees from the actual flange bolts. It much easier if you silicone the gasket onto the manifold and let it dry. This way when you install the down pipe (numerous times during fitting of the super tight radius pipe) you won't knock the gasket out of alignment (keeping it centered on the exhaust hole.
Treblig