Highest Amp Alternator For a 72 Duster
high amp draw should bypass the ammeter and bulkhead connector. 4 channel head unit with electronic crossover, point low frequency toward huge bass amp, bridge it and run both subs in series, careful not to exceed ohm rating of amp (2 8 ohm speakers in series makes a 4 ohm) Bass is not directional and is usually not seperated spatially channel wise.
run the 4 channels into a 4ch amp to maintain fader control. a member here does this for a living, he will probably chime in and tell me how wrong I am :-)
alt output is what your system will draw. watts divided by voltage = amps. so a true 1000w amp will draw up to 83A (class dependent) and you'll need a 4G wire to run it off the battery.
I agree with pishta on this but want to add to this thread as well,
I would reccommend going and getting a larger 8 or 6 gage wire for your alternator output, use a good quality ring terminal end. Crimp, solder, and shrink tube it, run it right to the positive side of the battery. Disconnect and remove the original alternator wire that goes thru the bulkhead. Add a fusible link. I believe fuse links should be sized 2 wire gages smaller than the circuit they are designed to protect. If i am incorrect i'd like someone here to chime in. I dont think anybody here wants a carbeque.
Ditch the amp gage. For what you want to do with a high powered stereo this will become a fire hazard. Disconnect both amp gage leads from the back of the gage , and attach the 2 ,gage wires together. I soldered and shrink tubed mine and wrapped it back into the harness, but a lot of folks bolt em together, and use electrical tape as to not cut into the harness.
Also find the battery hot lead going into the bulkhead usually this one taps off the starter relay on the fenderwell. Un pin this at,the bulkhead on both sides of the bulkhead, plug the plastic connector back into the bulkhead, and run a heavy gage wire straight thru and connect it to the wires you just removed from either connector. Should be large 10 gage red wire. This should eliminate another issue with melting bulkhead connectors since this is now your main feed to the dash from the battery.
Also As pishta stated, run a seperate dedicated 4 gage fused lead to your amp off the battery. I would recommend looking online at some of the stuff at Delcity.com . I believe they have power strips, and all kinds of stuff in regards to automotive, marine, and RV wiring.
Nippondenso has a compact 120Amp unit that
many people use in street rod applications. Its light weight, i believe theres adaptors and pulleys to mount this alt to a mopar small block too. This may be an option for you as well.
Crimp, solder and shrink wrap EVERYTHING . This is always important especially in engine compartments , and at battery terminal attach points. For my wiring i have an old weller with the headlights on it. Got mine at a flea market for .50 cents. Needed a new cord, lights, a good cleaning, and a tip. I have a roll of single strand heavy gage copper wire, so i just make my own tips as needed. This tool can easily heat up enough to flow solder into a 4 gage wire.
I also purchased a large lot of GM packard 56 male and female terminals. i purchased most of em in 14/16 gage, and only needed a few in 10/12 gage. Redo all the bulkhead wire connections, add new foam gaskets , and dialectric grease , and you will never have issues with your bulkhead again. Remember to crimp, solder , shrink wrap . Unpin and redo one pin at a time , this way you dont mix up the wires.
I hope this helps.
Matt
