Starter Clearance Issues

I tried the original starter today and it did not fit so I decided to grind the edge of the block where the starter rubbed. This allowed the mini starter to fit but the clearance for the header pipe was only about 1/16". So I did what many are gonna think is the unthinkable! I took out the torch, heated the header pipe and created clearance with a hammer. I just decided that I was not going to spend another $300 for a clockable starter. It created about 1/4" of starter clearance. I think this will be enough clearance that it doesnt create a hot starting issue. Its not the first time I have heated and bent a header pipe over the years, but I bought these because they are supposed to fit. The drivers side had so many issues and when I called TTI I was told they have made hundreds of these on the same jig so there is no way they could have been bent or welded incorrectly. The good thing is they are now on and I can move forward with my build. The bad thing is my $750 headers had to be altered and I could have done that with some cheaper headers. I touched up the heated bent area with some Por15 aluminum epoxy paint and from the top you cant see the adjustment.
Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and Ideas.
Rod


When I have a clearance issue with a header or exhaust I buy a piece of 1/8" or 1/4" silicone sheet. It doesn't cost very much but can withstand tremendous temperatures and is a very poor conductor of heat. I also buy the silicone tubing it's about 1/16" thick, I use it for my starter cables as they run close to my exhaust after I installed the 2004R trans and 340 manifold. You can't see the starter cable in the pics but you can see that the small starter came pretty close to my exhaust, it wasn't too close and I haven't have any heat soak starter issues at all. Also, the mini Dakota starter is wider than the Factory (69 Barracuda) starter. The mini starter stuck out further toward the driver's side


treblig