Collaborative early a experiment

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I wish this would have been here (discussed) before I bought my manifolds from Treblig. I got the 70's drivers side and the magnum passengers side. I'm installing a 5.9 magnum in my 65 Dart which has p/s and p/b. These WILL NOT WORK! I bought them without the paint because I had planned to powder coat them. Now I would like to sell them to someone that can use them. Great idea, just didn't work for me.

Tom
 
The manafolds are the same between the 180 hp motors & the hi-po 235 273's. its from there back is where its alk diffrent. Slightly,better flowing Y-pipe & 2 1/2 from Y-pipe to muffler then 2 1/4 from muffler to the resonator. Id love to do it,but chrysler really did there home work developing the exhaust for the hi-po 273's! It sounds great & for the smaller motors it flows just fine. it i was gonna do bigger motor (more power) id be more than happy be a lab rat but for what it is it works great now.
 
easyrider said:
I wish this would have been here (discussed) before I bought my manifolds from Treblig. I got the 70's drivers side and the magnum passengers side. I'm installing a 5.9 magnum in my 65 Dart which has p/s and p/b. These WILL NOT WORK! I bought them without the paint because I had planned to powder coat them. Now I would like to sell them to someone that can use them. Great idea, just didn't work for me.

Tom
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Tom, I sent you a PM on the manifolds.
Treblig
 
I just read through this a bit. I have a 64 Dart sw with a 273 all stock. if you need any measurements still lmk. The sb is coming out soon to start chassis work. It's getting a BB


Ray
 
4406 said:
I just read through this a bit. I have a 64 Dart sw with a 273 all stock. if you need any measurements still lmk. The sb is coming out soon to start chassis work. It's getting a BB


Ray
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Thanks for the offer Ray!! Once the engine is out if you wouldn't mind measuring the distance between the inner fenders in the area where the exhaust manifolds sit. Take a measurement in the center and at both ends of where the manifolds would normally be. This way I can compare any differences between car models/years.

Thanks, with everyone's help maybe we can figure this out. Some pics of where you take the measurements wouldn't hurt/??
Just in case someone might think that I'm not serious about what I am doing...just check out the pics of a portion of what I currently have in stock!! As you can see....I'm committed. Every single manifold in these pics (340 driver, 360 mag passenger, Dakota driver) has at least a 2 1/4" exit hole. The only exception is the ONE small hole 340 manifolds (one & seven eighths exit hole).


PS- Maybe someone will buy your old 273 if you post some pics???
treblig
 

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salinasjoel said:
I'd be up for it but I have PS and Column shift which rules me out
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Thanks Joel!! I've read that the 60s 340 manifolds actually do work with P/S but I figured I would start with non P/S then move on to other configurations. At least Indiana is within the distance requirement!!

Treblig
 
Treblig said:

I tried many times to figure out any difference. I still don't know what the difference is or if there is any??

Treblig
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There is no difference at all. My untouched til I got it 66 'S' car and 66 wagon have the same casting numbers and port/outlet sizes.

On another note, if you are stuck using early-A manifolds, find yourself a 60's truck drivers manifold to run on the passenger side. There is no heat valve but it is the same casting....with an outlet that small the heat valve and shaft took 30% of the cross section of the outlet out of the equation. Massive difference in mileage (from 14mpg to 17mpg average) and power (15.0's to 14.80's) in my wagon from the swap. casting #2843953
 

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waggin said:
I have had the 340 manifolds on my 64 dart convertible. they will not fit with power steering at all
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Sorry Waggs, your comment was overlooked and I would like to hear more...........:happy1:
 
CUDAGUY said:
There is no difference at all. My untouched til I got it 66 'S' car and 66 wagon have the same casting numbers and port/outlet sizes.

On another note, if you are stuck using early-A manifolds, find yourself a 60's truck drivers manifold to run on the passenger side. There is no heat valve but it is the same casting....with an outlet that small the heat valve and shaft took 30% of the cross section of the outlet out of the equation. Massive difference in mileage (from 14mpg to 17mpg average) and power (15.0's to 14.80's) in my wagon from the swap. casting #2843953
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Excellent info CUDAGUY!! If you gave everyone the casting number of the truck manifold it would help.

Thanks,
Treblig
 
66340SEDAN said:
Sorry Waggs, your comment was overlooked and I would like to hear more...........:happy1:
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Well he certainly tried really hard to get a set of 70's 340 manifolds to work in my 64 with PS.

I am not sure about the 60's ones, I am willing to pay for the effort and shipping to try a 60's manifold if there is a chance it will work.

I really hate headers, but I really like power steering.


Has anyone considered modifying a set by cutting it and re-welding it back together ?
 
Why wouldn't you just carefully cut out the heat riser valve & eather weld shut the holes or tap then for 3/8 plug & bolt back on presto! Same manafold & no surchen yards. (Like did to mine) not tryen to be rude,I'm just "thrifty"
 
trapster said:
Well he certainly tried really hard to get a set of 70's 340 manifolds to work in my 64 with PS.

I am not sure about the 60's ones, I am willing to pay for the effort and shipping to try a 60's manifold if there is a chance it will work.

I really hate headers, but I really like power steering.


Has anyone considered modifying a set by cutting it and re-welding it back together ?
Click to expand...

Well one thing is for sure and I have it documented...the 60s 340 exhaust manifold is designed a little different, here, see for yourself (SEE PICS). The 60s 340 is in the foreground (and right side of pic) and has no ribs.

I know for a fact that the 60s 340 pulls away from the steering box more than the 70s 340. It also rises higher, probably for the same reason. And most importantly it's absolutely flatter (no bulge) where it goes past the steering shaft area. The steering shaft area and the steering box area are the two places that are the problem with the 70s manifold in an early A.
Yes, I have seen 340 manifolds that have been cut and re-welded to change the angle of the exhaust flange but it would be difficult and very expensive to modify the area around the steering box!! I have read more than one thread (here on FABO) where other members have installed the 60s 340 in EARLY A cars with P/S and they worked!! It just hasn't been well documented and that's what I'm trying to do to help all you Early A people. I could sit back and sell all my manifolds to 67 and up members with no problem because sometimes it's difficult to keep up with orders. I haven't been advertising (in the for sale section) for over two months just so I could build up more inventory. I just got tired of early A owners asking me if my manifolds will in work their cars so I'm trying to do something about it. The 70s 340 probably won't work but I believe (from what I have read) that the 60s 340 will work without P/S and maybe maybe also with P/S.

treblig
 

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FABO member T-Rex has an A body 66 wagon and wrote:

"I used a set of 1969 Dart 340 manifolds, and machined the flange(Manifold to head surface) at a 7* angle, to tuck them closer to tha block...If U use power steering, U will have to grind steering box and the manifold at the pipe flange....if U use std steering, U good to go!!....I had a 380HP 360 then, but now have a warmed up 318...Heres a pic wit P/B booster and P/S!! "

Here is a pic of T-Rex's car with P/S and 60s 340 manifolds:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1474&stc=1&d=1134928492

treblig
 
CUDAMARK wrote about a '65 A Body: "The '68-70 340 exhaust manifold fits if you have manual steering and can build a custom front pipe. "

treblig
 
Well it's the weekend again and I'm bumping this thread up to the top still looking for someone to act as a volunteer for this Early A experiment. I have numerous (60s & 70s) 340 manifolds, large hole Dakotas and large hole 360 magnum passenger manifolds as you can see in previous posts. I also make the special 180 degree super tight radius mandrel bent downpipe needed to install a 340 driver's manifold in A bodies. If you're interested in being a volunteer please read the very first post in this thread to see if you qualify. Also if you take the time to read all of the posts in this thread you'll get other information that has been posted about large exhaust manifolds in Early As.

Thanks,
Treblig
 
The 60`s 340 will not fit with P/S I had one I tried and the flange hits the steering box before even being able to bolt it down.
 
chryslerfat said:
The 60`s 340 will not fit with P/S I had one I tried and the flange hits the steering box before even being able to bolt it down.
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I imagine that you've actually tried using a 60s 340 driver on an early A with P/S. According to T-Rex (FABO member), "If U use power steering, U will have to grind steering box and the manifold at the pipe flange....if U use std steering, U good to go!!"
But again, I have never done it myself. I believe T-Rex also had the manifold cut at a 7 degree angle where it mates against the engine. I never saw the installation myself so I can only go by what I have read here on FABO. Also, if you have motor mounts that raise the engine higher than stock (schumaker mounts) then the interference (at the steering box) in minimized.
I prefer that the volunteer in this experiment have standard steering and no column shift.
PS - Thanks for your input!!
Treblig
 
Treblig said:
I imagine that you've actually tried using a 60s 340 driver on an early A with P/S. According to T-Rex (FABO member), "If U use power steering, U will have to grind steering box and the manifold at the pipe flange....if U use std steering, U good to go!!"
But again, I have never done it myself. I believe T-Rex also had the manifold cut at a 7 degree angle where it mates against the engine. I never saw the installation myself so I can only go by what I have read here on FABO. Also, if you have motor mounts that raise the engine higher than stock (schumaker mounts) then the interference (at the steering box) in minimized.
I prefer that the volunteer in this experiment have standard steering and no column shift.
PS - Thanks for your input!!
Treblig
Click to expand...

Yes I tried and it would render the manifold useless if you ground enough to fit. Stock factory motor mounts with good rubber.
 
chryslerfat said:
Yes I tried and it would render the manifold useless if you ground enough to fit. Stock factory motor mounts with good rubber.
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Thank your for your actual experience!! If we only knew if "T-Rex" had stock mounts. I imagine he will eventually see this thread and maybe enlighten us. T-Rex does say that he was able to use the 60s 340 but didn't give the details on mounts or spacers under mounts. I (with the help of others) will eventually figure this out.

treblig
 
Well it's the weekend again and I'm bumping this thread up to the top still looking for someone to act as a volunteer for this Early A experiment. I have numerous (60s & 70s) 340 manifolds, large hole Dakotas and large hole 360 magnum passenger manifolds as you can see in previous posts. I also make the special 180 degree super tight radius mandrel bent downpipe needed to install a 340 driver's manifold in A bodies. If you're interested in being a volunteer please read the very first post in this thread to see if you qualify. Also if you take the time to read all of the posts in this thread you'll get other information that has been posted about large exhaust manifolds in Early As.

Thanks,
Treblig
 

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Well it's the weekend again and I'm bumping this thread up to the top still looking for someone to act as a volunteer for this Early A experiment. I have numerous (60s & 70s) 340 manifolds, large hole Dakotas and large hole 360 magnum passenger manifolds as you can see in previous posts. I also make the special 180 degree super tight radius mandrel bent downpipe needed to install a 340 driver's manifold in A bodies. If you're interested in being a volunteer please read the very first post in this thread to see if you qualify. Also if you take the time to read all of the posts in this thread you'll get other information that has been posted about large exhaust manifolds in Early As.

Thanks,
Treblig
 
I have a 64 dart, man steering and brakes. pushbutton cable car..... I have a 318, ( out of 71 0r 2 pickup), that will go in there next week. I have 273 exh man. to use on it. buying your exh man is not on my financial plate right now. if it would help, you can send them here and I will use them on the engine for your test. you can pay shipping to and from, located s w misourui 65752.
shipping costs might be prohibitive, but I need cable tranny , that's first on my list of things needed!!!
 
barbee6043 said:
I have a 64 dart, man steering and brakes. pushbutton cable car..... I have a 318, ( out of 71 0r 2 pickup), that will go in there next week. I have 273 exh man. to use on it. buying your exh man is not on my financial plate right now. if it would help, you can send them here and I will use them on the engine for your test. you can pay shipping to and from, located s w misourui 65752.
shipping costs might be prohibitive, but I need cable tranny , that's first on my list of things needed!!!
Click to expand...

Well you meet all the qualifications except the volunteer is supposed to pay shipping one way and you didn't say if you or someone you know have the skills to make minor modifications if necessary. If you're replacing an engine you probably know what you're doing but I have to ask if I'm paying for shipping. The type of motor mount you use can also have an effect on steering box clearance are you willing to shim the mounts if necessary. Also, you will receive the manifolds unpainted so you don't scratch up a new paint job during fitting/installation. Have you read all the other posts in this thread for things that you might have to do?? I want to make sure you know what might be involved for there to be a better chance of success, other Early A members will be depending on you help. You will be required to take numerous pics of the process and post all progress in this thread for others to benefit.
I'll check on shipping. You said that buying my exh man is not on your financial plate right now?? #####Does that mean you can or can't buy them if I pay for shipping?###

thanks,
Gil
 
Treblig, why don't you go buy an early A , get a V8 drop it in, and figure what mods are needed. It seems that you are making a business out of modified manifolds. You want someone to pay up front, do all of the work, document it , do modifications and give you the info you need to sell more manifolds. Not looking for a fight,I see that your offer is weak. Probably the reason noone wants to jump on board. Good luck in your manifold business.
 
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