low budget bracket racing blues

I'm an old trans guy and I've built lots of bracket race 727s.
First I want to say that the fluid coming from the front fitting (hot) is exiting the torque converter. This fluid needs to be cooled and filtered as it is used for Lubrication when it comes back to the trans. Stock valve bodies don't have flow though the cooler in park, but do have flow in neutral and all other gears. I keep filters in stock to plug inline. I recommend using ATF+4 fluid for all 727s it costs more but has a very high boiling point which keeps the torque converter from turning blue and the rear drum from galling it's support smearing the low sprag lube hole shut and ruining the sprag. I usually drill an extra hole.062" through the case to help keep the sprag wet.
The next thing is the inner seal of the front drum. it's too small. All the new kits that I buy have both the original style and a wide style seal. I always use the wide one.

I recommend using a transgo shift kit. Their TF-2 kit for automatic shifting and their TF-3 kit for manual. Either one can be shifted to neutral after the run and both are forward pattern.
Always check your fluid in neutral and use neutral for long idle periods. (tuning carbs..etc.)
I'm working on a '69 barracuda coupe to run in our sportsman and no-E classes.
It will have a 383 B engine with solid flat tappet cam, KB hyper domed .060 over pistons, 440 source heads, Eagle H-beam rods, and my homemade fuel injection. I'm hoping to run right at 11 flat in the quarter on E-85.