idler arm help

-The break-away torque is different than the turning-torque.Ima gonna guess that break-away could be several times as much as actual turning-torque Thats physics.
-It has to be tight to keep the right wheel on track with the left.
-A stud mount has to be tighter than a through-bolt, in the beginning of its life, to have a reasonable service life.
-Its been my experience that most joints seem to be tighter than I imagine that they should be. Thats perception. In practice, the better brands work fine after a short break-in.
-A too-tight idler will manifest, after the alignment, as a tendency for the car to travel in a straight line, requiring constant small corrections to actually drive down the road, straight or not. And almost every correction will immediately require a small re-correction. And the steering has a tendency to not self-center, after finishing a turn. This gets to be a PITA.Especially at highway speeds and on long trips.
-If it doesnt loosen up after a couple of hundred miles, and it becomes unbearable, the only cure is replacement.
-An idler-arm only replacement, shouldnt require a re-alignment.But I cant promise that.