Put a Champion 526 radiator in a 71 swinger?

Hopefully, this will be of some benefit:

Not sure this is the best place to post this info, but everyone running AL radiators needs to be aware of the corrosion changes that take place when going from a brass to AL radiator. When a brass radiator is used with a cast iron engine, the iron in the engine is the sacrificial element in the electrolytic process that will occur between the different metals. When an AL radiator is used, the AL in the radiator becomes the sacrificial element in the electrolysis.

So use a good coolant (for the sake of the corrosion inhibitors), not just water, and change it every 2 year or so. In the old days, you could keep the coolant in for a long time. The inhibitors would wear out/fail, but the thickness of the iron castings would withstand that; you would just end up with a lot of muddy crud in the cooling system form the cast iron corrosion. With the thin AL radiator, you end up with holes in your radiator.

Isolating the AL radiator from the chassis with rubber or plastic supports will slow the electrolytic process by breaking any electrical current path through the radiator; new car AL radiators benefit from plastic tanks and isolated supported for this. But that is not often practical in retrofits.

BTW, there are anti-corrosion slugs (zinc I do believe) that cab be installed in the cooling system to provide a preferred sacrificial metal slug that will attract some of the corrosion action away from the AL rad.