Goodbye Crane Flat Tappet. I hardly knew ye.

Back to the OP, if I may;
Ive been running a Hughes 3237cam for about 10 years or so.I run their springs, and their lifters.And 1.6 roller tipped aluminum arms, from Chrysler.In the early years,I had shifter trouble and I would often miss shifts.I was too cheap to buy a rev limiter and reasoned that extra seat pressure and very little lifter preload would help to prevent lifter pump-up due to valve float. So that is what I did.My 360 is regularly shifted at 7200, and on missed shifts(years ago) has gone north of 8000.The engine never floats valves and the 3/8turn preload are working.
Previous to this cam I had a Hughes 2330 with the same 1.6s,but with Hughes recommended springs installed per their specs.That cam was 4 summers old when it started wiping lobes. It began right after an oilchange. Same oil I had always run. But now they had removed the zinc.Nobody told me.
So when I installed the new cam,I had to figure out why this happened, and thats when I discovered the zinc/ZDDP story. So in went the oil, plus one can of additive (GM dealer). Been installing the additive for 10 years now, and no more trouble.
Now heres the point;
I run whatever dyno oil is on sale now, with almost no regard for quality, and zero regard for specific brand. I run a 7qt pan and run only 5 qts in it.I run 10W30, because more than that balloons the oilfilter mounting plate and pisses oil onto the header, with attending smoke, and fire hazzard.
BTW; I fixed my shifter, and modded my box.I very rarely miss a shift anymore.
True story.
-----------------------
So quit speculating.
Install the ZDDP additive, and leave the synthetics for the rollercam boys.

I use plane old Dino oil...Mobile 10w-30 from Walmart...and add ZDDP that I buy off of ebay....don't have problems with flat tappets....

as far as pissing oil out of the mounting plate...Canton makes a billet oil mounting plate that uses a O ring to seal it....can be bought from summit or jegs ...around 40 dollars..