Brake lights not working

Most people do not realize that current flows through the brake light switch and then into the turn signal switch. Your problem could be the turn signal switch OR the turn signal cancelling cam. The turn signal cancelling cam has two wires going to it. One wire is hot when current flows through the brake light switch and the other is hot when the ignition switch is 'ON'. The 'Brake Light' power flows through the cancelling cam wire and then goes through two hard wires about 1/2 inch long on the back side of the cancelling cam that (when properly aligned) each touch two little bumps (or contacts) on the top of the turn light switch. There are actually 4 little contact bumps on the top of the turn signal switch - two for the front turn signals (left two I think); and two for the brake lights (right 2 I think). Brake light Power then flows through the bumps (contacts) the rear brake lights. You will clearly see what I mean if you take off your steering wheel and look at the bottom (back) side of the turn signal cancelling cam and the top or the turn signal. Or you could look the parts up individually on Ebay and see them. FIRST, make sure you have 12 volts flowing through the brake light switch when the pedal is depressed. Then pull your steering wheel and leave the cancelling cam in place. With a current tester, check to see if you have power flowing through one the wires on the top of the cancelling cam (the one on the right I think). If you do have current, you are halfway there. Now pull the cancelling cam and turn it over. For the wires to touch the contacts, they must be sticking out a bit. Test the rest of the circuit by jumping current from the canceling cam back wire (with brake pedal depressed) to the contact bumps the hard wires would have been touching one at a time. If the brake lights work, then your turn signal switch is likely working since it fed current to the cancelling cam and to the brake lights. In this case the cancelling cam may be the culprit since it appears to be unable to complete the circuit. If you have no current going to the cancelling cam or if jumping current to the contact bumps on the top of the turn signal switch did not allow current to flow to the brake lights, then you likely have a bad turn signal stitch.