Boosted 318 Demon Build Thread

First.. there are images.. try reading.. it would do you some good. If you actually read instead of scrolling down looking for pictures then you would see I have an external photo gallery which at the moment has 191 images . I explained that already in this build thread. By having an external gallery I can put up MORE images. Can you imagine 191 images on here?

Now my update....

Purchased an MAS fiberglass 6pack hood from Rich. He was the old owner of MAS. Very nice guy. I know that knock on MAS hoods is the quality and the fit or something but honestly I have spent more on dumber stuff. I bought the hood for $200 and it's never been installed. It was just sitting in his warehouse. I removed my stock hood so I could do a "test fit" and set the hood down on the car. To do that I had to remove the hood hinges.. Oh boy... here is where you DON'T believe everything you read. I did a bit of research on here and other places and saw everything from having to pull my fenders to get to the hinges to having to pull the fenders and the doors to get to them. This is why people should not speak. The truth is I removed.. yes REMOVED my hinges in less than 20 minutes by doing the following.

First. I just removed the dust shields from the inner fender. They are plastic pieces that prevent crud from getting up between the fender and the body. In my case it was a nice place for crud to build up. It takes 5 minutes to remove the dust shields. Once you remove the dust shields you then look up and you see the hinge is mounted by two pins with what looks like a star lock washer for lack of a better description. Just use a long screwdriver or a small pry bar and wedge that star lock washer thingy out a little. It will stop on a groove but that is fine. Once you wedge it out a little, reach up with a pair of dykes and cut it... then yank it down. DONE.. seriously .. easy. My doors and fenders are still on the car. The top one is a little harder to reach and in my case the driver side and a ton of insulation or seam sealer around it but it wasn't hard. Once the hinges were off I could place the hood on the car. I also read that some people just undo one side of the hinge and let if fall down and secure it.. you can do that but why? potential problems. Here are pics of the hood test fit on the car. The rubber pieces are still on the edges so the hood didn't sit perfect but you get the idea. The fit looks excellent and it has nice rolled edges. If I wreck it then so what.. it was only $200.00

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=album&id=57

here are pics of the hinges, dust shields and tools i used to remove them.

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=album&id=59

I have also been accumulating parts from various sources. I have a a833 transmission that is NOT a 4 speed. It is in fact a 3 speed with OD.. didn't know that at the time i bought it but really glad that I was educated on it. An oldler gentleman that collects mopar stuff came by my house and was educating me on stuff I had. My a833 is in fact a cast iron case 3 speed with overdrive which gives it a tiny 4th gear but a tall first gear. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th are long which is a good thing since turbo motors like to lug. This info is great to know so I make sure I get the proper linkage. The person I bought if from didn't know what he had and had the dog ear upside down on the case for the shifter linkage. Pics of the transmission

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=album&id=58

I also picked up 4 speed pedal assembly for an abody. They are in good condition but I need to clean them up and change the busings.

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=album&id=60

Next i got a Hurst abody shifter for my a833.. this shifter is is amazing condition. Put it on a vice and tried it out. nice tight shifts.. finally something that don't need to be rebuilt.

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=album&id=62

I also put up pics of the turbo.

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=album&id=63

Now for some fun stuff. I had planned to use this 5.2 out of a 98 dakota that I knew ran but had 200K on it... I decided to pull the heads off the engine so I could do the following:
1. remove the pushrods so all the valves close and the engine is sealed up when I put it back together. I know I can just loosen the rockers but why.. got the heads off anyways
2. Check the cylinders.. it would REALLY suck if the cylinders were scored up or had a lot of wear ...
3. if all was well coat everything liberally, turn it over by hand a few times and seal it up for when I am ready to do the machine work.

The end result is the cylinders were BEAUTIFUL.. i really love 318s.. seriously .. they take a beating.. I could still see crosshatch on the walls. I THINK but not 100% that I MIGHT be able to get away without boring over. That would be preferred. More meat between the cylinders but I am not a machinist so I don't know. I do know there is no rust, no scoring so if any boring is needed it will be minimal. Hopefully just need to hone it out. I coated everything up with wd40 specialist long term rust inhibitor..Yup. got pics.

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=album&id=65

The next thing I did was remove the AC compressor and power steering pump from the 5.2 magnum.. Since you can't go into Napa and ask for a belt for a 98 dakota with no ac and no power steering I had to be a bit creative here. The first attempt was just running a belt with what was there. This did not work because the only belts available from Napa were way too small or a few inches too long.. it was like 51.5 if I remember correctly. image of initial idea.

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=picture&id=553

That didn't work so I tried using the top smooth pulley. That "worked" but it had the potential of slipping off.. never good to have two smooth pulleys inline together.

http://www.dirtylittledemon.com/photo_gallery/?level=picture&id=554

Then I had an idea.. First I removed the pulley from the tensioner. I was going to get a new tensioner anyways so why not try. I then swapped the top most smooth pulley with the tensioner pulley. the bearing diameter is a little different so I had to purchase a 10mm bushing from Napa ... it worked like a charm. Once I saw that would work I purchased a new tensioner, a new separate tensioner pulley and bolted everything in place. The dust shield for the original smooth pulley is a little big and slightly rubs the inner part of the tensioner pulley so I used a very thing washer to space it out. I then use a 6 rib belt from napa to get the right size. Once I got the size figured out I had to order a 7 rib belt. Conveniently that belt ONLY came in an HD version. No problem there. I have no pic of the new setup as of typing this but by the end of the day today I will .. the belt comes in today. The Napa part numbers for this conversion are as follows

25070529HD = Gates Belt
38116 = Drive belt tensioner assembly
91051-15 = 10mm bushing sleeve thingy.
38016 = tensioner pulley.. JUST the pulley.

that's it.. for now.