Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

I may be interested in that if it is a peanut head.

Mike


If it is, I'll give you a good deal on it. Not looking to get rich.

David,

What us your desire/intention regarding that "new" slant six you just took delivery of? Is it to ultimately be a street engine, race engine, street and strip, or what?

Please email me at: [email protected], so we can discuss this stuff in detail without loading up FABO pages with minutiae that lots of folks might have no interest in...

I envy you, having a "blank sheet of paper" to work with, here, regarding this new motor!

It's exciting!:blob:


You know Bill, the excitement of this thread I think partially comes from discussion, so I don't mind if there are 10 or 11 pages worth of talk. My thought process has gone in so many different directions. If you look at page 1, I start this thread building a carbutetor that I didn't even use, using a color scheme that I decided not to have. Then I buy another carbuteretor and build it, only to find it's too small for my liking, to buy another that I don't want and then finally settle on a 350 and actually use it.

Then I paint the engine bay copper
Then I paint the motor blue
Then I paint the motor silver
Then I paint the engine bay black
Then I paint the exhaust manifold white
Then I paint the exhaust manifold blue
Then I use aluminum piping and polish it
Then I paint it blue
Then I buy MSD 6aln
Then I don't even use it
Then I buy mallory 6 ignition
Then I don't even use that
Then I buy HEI and use that

Are you seeing how my brain works? I'm a little too artistic and creative I guess, and I'm already deciding on a different color to paint the engine bay.... but anyway...

RIGHT NOW (that's the important term) I have a thought about the new engine going into my shop. Also, 15-20psi max.

The thing first - and foremost in my mind is that this car is my car - meaning my only one. I have the '74 318 Dart, but the driving joy is not the same if you catch my drift.

That's also why I'm opting to build a second engine instead of pulling the one currently in the car, because this minimizes downtime. I can still drive the car while I build an engine. Then when the other engine is out of the car... I don't know what I'll do with it - but something.

Block - So my thought is thus - how cheaply can I rebuild a motor while making some improvements to what's inside. There's a machinist nearby that I use for all my work. I'm thinking of dissasembling the block, and dropping it off with him so he can clean the deck (not drop the deck any) But perhaps bore the cylinders out slightly. I see a lot of people going .030 over, and am thinking that may be a good option.

Crank- I WAS going to see if I could get the crank shaft ground off center to turn it into a stroker, but I have since decided against that as I don't think the cost/power ratio would be much benefit to me. I can likely make up the difference in 1 or 2 psi of boost.

Rods and pistons - I'd like to tell you I know what to buy, but I don't. Something that is not super expensive and will withstand the boost pressure and be a reliable, good option.

Timing chain - I will try and find a double roller for this, or I'll likely just replace it with a cloys timing set.

Camshaft - I'd be lying if I said I knew what all the numbers on a cam grind really meant. I sort of understand it - as far as lift, duration of 360, etc... but as far as what cam I should get, I don't know. I've heard that the comp cam available is not a good turbo cam, but what about the brown, marine, etc? Or am I looking at finding an ISky or something? I feel like price-wise a cam that already exists is what I want, as opposed to a custom grind. Also I'd need new lifters since I am not using the hydraulic system.

Head:


The head is already decked nicely, and shaved a little.

Valves - I'm thinking of using the valves it has since they're new, but replacing the springs with something more robust, I hear 340 valve springs work? Or is it 360?

Ports - I already have a port done on the head, and it's gasket matched. I'll likely polish it while the valves are out.

And so far that's all I can think of that I'd actually change, the rest would just be a normal rebuild - new gaskets, etc...