No spark and i can only get 5V at the coil.

Thanks for the data. The 12v in and out of the ignition switch is good the 10.9 vo at the ballas tin put is a bit on the low side; the issues dropping this are likely the connectors at the firewall or out of the switch. A good cleaning if the contacts is in order.

The 3 module pix are: #2 is the charging systems voltage regulator. #1 and #3: I don't know! I don't have those on any diagrams. Can you give us the PN off of those, or any info as to where the non-blue wires from their connectors go? Those certainly are odd and I have to wonder how much current they are pulling and no helping the voltage to the ignition. But the car ran before right?

Test the ballast with your ohmmeter to see which side is the 0.6 ohm side and make sure that is the side that the coil current passes through. You'l also have a test of the resistance values to make sure it is right. Your harness looks to have the orientation tabs intact on the ballast connectors so it is probably OK, but just check anyway to be sure.

Once the hacks are fixed as well as you can (and I wish I had some good suggestions there), you're at the point to start running some tests for spark as suggested. Get some more data points.

By the diagrams it says #1 is the Exhaust Gas Recirculator Vacuum Switch and #3 is the Electronic Speed Switch.

Running through the tests in the pub it mentioned testing those cavities with a batter that has at least 12volts. I have it at 12v before the ignition is on, as soon as I turn the key to the on position and it drops to 11.7volts and cavities 1,2,3 measure 10.8volts so it's right at .2 volts away from being out of tolerance.

I measured the resistance and across the top two pins and it has 5.6ohms and the bottom has 1.5 ohms resistance. Bottom seems a little high considering it is only supposed to have .5 ohms.

After my sons next soccer game ill be doing the test on the coil wire to check for arching and ill post more results then.