Ready to rotate (soon)

And you took the intake off because?
Try not to rotate the engine any more than you have too, until after cam break-in. Prime the oil circuit with the hex drive and an electric drill. Install the dizzy correctly the first time and set the initial to 10* or so. Fill the carb bowls and install the break-in oil with the ZDP prior to cranking. Keep the water hose handy and a fire extinguisher.
As soon as it runs, idle it up to 2500, and check for leaks, especially fuel. If you have a fuel leak, shut it down and fix it! Then resume the 20 minute cam break-in.

BTW, now is the best time to measure the total chamber fill-volume, while the engine is on the assy-stand. To do this, I put the number one cylinder(or #6), on TDC/compression stroke.I rotate the engine to put the sparkplug hole of the selected cylinder as the highpoint of the chamber. I measure out 100cc of engine oil, and pour about 50cc in there at a good speed,then slow down and continue until the oil comes up to the bottom of the plug hole. Set the beaker down on a level surface. Rotate the crank a few degrees back and forth, to find the exact high point.Top it up if required, to the bottom of the plug hole. Its nice when the damper is right. Go back to the beaker. How much oil is left in there,and more importantly, how much went in?Do the math, and write it down.This number will be used to calculate your true compression ratio, as well as a few other things. Weeks or years from now you will be glad to know this number.Go back to the engine, and roll it over to let the oil drain out, (a couple of hours would be good). If you overfill the chamber and make a mess, its best to start over with a different cylinder.This is not the time to be estimating, and it will be impossible to get all the oil out to reuse the same cylinder.



That could get messy,

Here's a way to also check compression when the engine is apart:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278215