Ready to rotate (soon)

it appears that the lube has already been wiped off of the lobes from excessive turning. first I'd turn the crank to 90 deg BTDC #1 compression (some dampeners have (3) other partial slits in addition to the full TDC slit). use the one of them that is 1/4 turn CW from the full slit (so you are actually turning the crank CCW from TDC) or measure a strip of paper 5.694". Preoil with the 5/16" hex & look in the valve cover oil fill port to confirm the pass side is getting oiled. then turn crank to 20 ATDC #6 compression & repeat for the drivers side (use the timing tab as a ruler to get the extra 5 deg). using a 1&1/4 socket/breaker bar bring the crank forward a hair to 15. install & clock the intergear ANYWHERE it needs to be so after installing the dist the rotor is pointing rearward & slightly to the drivers side (intergear parallel to eng CL is a good start). turn dist housing so can is on pass side & line up the magnet dead even with the tooth. plug in the #6 plug wire in the cap above the dr rear location of the rotor. continue on around CW 5-7-2-1-8-4-3. make a mark on the dampener 2 & 7/32" CW from the TDC full slit & have your dist man set it to that when it fires. can capped. thermostat OUT. as said bowl filled. fan in front of rad. front end jacked up. helper to spot leaks. you in dr seat to fire it up/shout orders. read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com any leaks/issues dont think about the severity just shut it off/fix it/restart & continue on for the rest of the 25 minute breakin. YOu have ONE shot to get a good cam and ring breakin. Just me I would regoop that cam (there's no goop in it). cam failures are epidemic. I would also undo the valvetrain & make sure the lifters are free to rotate. (hughes engines procedure). alot of work/ I am picky (& suffer from OCD) but you have ONE shot to get a excellent breakin as opposed to a good/so so breakin and you have thousands of dollars and many man hours invested. RR