RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss

I thought I would also give a 318 LA recipe, too. Don't want to leave anybody out and I am sure there are plenty of them layin around still and even still in service. They are after all, one of the best engines ever built and IMO one of the most thrown in the ditch and overlooked. Poor 318.

This is for any 67 and up LA 318. Cast or forged crank, it does not matter. I am a huge proponent of what I call "dirt road builds". That is to say, cutting every corner that you absolutely can to achieve the cheapest build possible. It's something I have pretty much had to do with almost every project, because hay, I've never had money and it will probably be that way the rest of my life. Just how it is. With that in mind, here we go.

I love dirt road builds. Their very definition says no boring to try and save every penny possible. But lets face it, the LA engines have been around a long time. Many are already bored and perhaps in good condition still, but lets assume you have a standard bore and it will clean up at .030. With that in mind, here is our recipe. Also, this is a flat tappet, hydraulic cam engine.

67 and up 318 block, bored .030 over.

Pistons: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-526ap/overview/make/dodge

These have a 1.745" compression height, which is pretty tall for a stock 318 piston. A lot of people don't realize the LA 318 had several different compression heights through the years. 1.745 is the tallest.

Deck the block to .025" below the 9.6 factory spec to 9.575. Yes, decking the block adds expense. It is also well worth the payoff. You will see in a minute.

Heads: You can either stick with the early 318 head, or find a set of the "coveted" 302 castings. It does not matter. The early 318 LA heads will need to be milled to 65cc's.....and may already be close OR there. They may even be a touch smaller and that's ok. We have some room in this recipe for variation, so all is good. Our target compression ratio is a shade under 9.5:1 and that's where we will end up.

With a 65cc head, compression with the decked block is 9.2. With the 60cc 302 head, compression is at 9.8. If you end up with the 302 heads, simply substitute the .039" Fel Pro head gasket and you will be a pump gas friendly 9.3.

Camshaft: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-711651-10/overview/make/dodge

I really like what Howards is doing for grinds. Lots of lift in comparison per duration to other companies. Perfect for the large diameter Mopar lifter. The above grind, IMO is really nice for a street car. Although some may disagree, IMO the Comp 901 spring will work here. Very affordable drop in spring requiring no head machining. With this amount of lift though, your machine shop will need to cut the guides for retainer clearance. Don't let this simple procedure deter you. It will be worth it in the long run.

Expect to spend around 450 or so on head work if you need guides and seats. It's something you cannot get around if it is needed. The heads are the most important part of the engine IMO and corners don't need to be cut. Although we are not porting at this level, it is important that head work is done correctly and they are in as good a condition as can be. As I have said so many times before, If you don't want to do this as right as you can, find another hobby. Maybe stamp collecting.

Again, I recommend low tension rings. There are several little tips and tricks for more torque and that is one. They will live just fine on the street. With the fresh bore and new pistons, there will be no excessive oil consumption. I promise.

Intake: "I" personally like the old Weiand Action Plus here. LD4B is also good, if you can find one without mortgaging the house. Another fantastic choice is the old Holley Street Dominator. Yes, it's a single plane, but very overlooked. It has a larger plenum than most other single planes and that, coupled with its runner design gives it great bottom end response. A little known secret these days from us old farts. You can find them cheap too, because they are single planes and "nobody wants them".

For exhaust, see my last post on the Summit headers. They are a great bang for the buck. Yeah, you might have to tweak a tube hear or there.....especially where the torsion bars run close to them, but they are a great bargain compared to 1K dollar headers we don't need here.

Again too, with block decking and head milling, you will need the correct length pushrod. As before, don't let this deter you. Simple things like this assure the engine gets what it needs and it's plum stupid to leave this out.

Distributor: See my last recipe in this thread.

Carburetor: See my last recipe in this thread.

Again, this engine will be an honest 300 HP 318. A very nice little street motor that in a properly prepared A body, might just skank the heck out of something that ain't ready for it. With 4.10 gears and slicks and a good driver, it has some LOW 14 potential. Possibly quicker in the lighter cars. Be pretty embarrassing to get all beat up by a budget 318, but it's happened before. A LOT.