Where to find this harness connector?

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phaelax

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Hopefully the picture below explains it all. But what could I call this specific connector or where could I find one?

http://i.imgur.com/f9e9NC4.jpg


Basically, I had a wire burn through the insulation and nearly start a fire. I cut the old part out and put in new 14ga. It's the main lead off the alternator. Then, soon as I tried to jump the battery, the picture above went up in smoke and the insulation just crumbled off. So at the this point, I'm not sure if I have a short somewhere which is causing the wires to get way hotter than they should be or if the wires just broke down over time and can't handle the voltage anymore. Last month, I did replace the alternator with a new 60amp. I have no idea what the old one was, I couldn't make out any markings on it.

The wire burnt beyond the fusible link, which seems like that wire didn't do its job properly if I understand it was suppose to break before this happens. And some of the wires are somewhat fused into the connector so I plan to just replace that entire piece (and most like likely all the wires in the engine bay).

I've unfortunately have had to rely on this car as my daily driver the past few weeks but will hopefully have my chrysler back by this weekend. But it looks like I may be taking the bus for a few days :(


I won't even get into the neutral safety switch/connector that I found shredded and dangling under my car friday...


Actually, I think I found it.
http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/md4501.html

Even though it says it's only for up to '69, it looks identical to mine.
 
Sorry I don't know, offhand. I was going to suggest a want ad in the sale / want section for a used one.
 
Hopefully the picture below explains it all. But what could I call this specific connector or where could I find one?

http://i.imgur.com/f9e9NC4.jpg


Basically, I had a wire burn through the insulation and nearly start a fire. I cut the old part out and put in new 14ga. It's the main lead off the alternator. Then, soon as I tried to jump the battery, the picture above went up in smoke and the insulation just crumbled off. So at the this point, I'm not sure if I have a short somewhere which is causing the wires to get way hotter than they should be or if the wires just broke down over time and can't handle the voltage anymore. Last month, I did replace the alternator with a new 60amp. I have no idea what the old one was, I couldn't make out any markings on it.

The wire burnt beyond the fusible link, which seems like that wire didn't do its job properly if I understand it was suppose to break before this happens. And some of the wires are somewhat fused into the connector so I plan to just replace that entire piece (and most like likely all the wires in the engine bay).

I've unfortunately have had to rely on this car as my daily driver the past few weeks but will hopefully have my chrysler back by this weekend. But it looks like I may be taking the bus for a few days :(


I won't even get into the neutral safety switch/connector that I found shredded and dangling under my car friday...


Actually, I think I found it.
http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/md4501.html

Even though it says it's only for up to '69, it looks identical to mine.


that picture does not show the location bump, so it could be or it might not be the correct one.

try Evans wiring. I got mine for my 73 duster and the 70 challenger(the one the alternator wire connects through) plus all 3 different ones for my 66 dart there.
The locator pin is a the critical piece that he will ask about. you pic shows a center locator and if you look at the others on the bulkhead connector you'll notice they are in different locations

contact him because they DO have just the connectors for sale just not listed on their web site
http://www.evanswiring.com
 
it's a bulkhead connector. FIND THE DEAD SHORT FIRST!!! OR YOU COULD DO THIS AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN. Are you running a high output alternator with a 40 year old stock wiring harness? This could be your root problem.
 
Obviously a dead short you had there to take out the fuse link, but the spades in your bulkhead/firewall connector look like mine did, my plug started burning up at the fuselink/battery and at the alternator pin....the female spades in the firewall side open up and get loose. This may not be of any help to you but this is what I did to replace my whole bulkhead connector. It does not look period correct but my main goal is to have a car that won't leave me at the side of the road or worse yet catch fire. I put maxi fuses at my battery instead of the fuselink. This plug has no connectors in it, the wiring is just pushed through and hardwired under the dash, I put all new wiring under the hood.
 

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it's a bulkhead connector. FIND THE DEAD SHORT FIRST!!! OR YOU COULD DO THIS AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN. Are you running a high output alternator with a 40 year old stock wiring harness? This could be your root problem.

One of the reasons I plan to just rewire the whole engine compartment. Other reasons being old shitty wires and a mess of electrical tape. The alternator is 60a.

Evans looks waaaay cheap compared to other harnesses I've seen out there.

The locator pin is a the critical piece that he will ask about. you pic shows a center locator and if you look at the others on the bulkhead connector you'll notice they are in different locations
Thanks for the tip, I wasn't aware of that.
 
I rewired all but 4 or 5 wires in the car. I got rid of those firewall connectors and ran it all into a box with terminal strips. The box has be modified some but mostly correct


I bought about 1200 feet of 16 gauge wire, mixed colors and built the harness in place. Of the 1200 feet, I must have 700 feet left. But I like to have inventory available.
I bought 50 ft or so of 12 and 14 gauge wire also.

I did the wires one at a time and was able to get it done. My wiring schematics helped quite a bit in locating the other end of the wires.

If I was to give advice, it would be, There is no such thing as a solderless connector. I crimped and soldered every single wire at both ends. Belts and Suspenders.
 

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If you're looking to replace your stock wiring harnesses, Year One is the exclusive distributor to M&H, a manufacturer of OEM replica harnesses. Basically plug and play. Not cheap, but the Labor Day weekend is approaching and YO will probably have a 30% off sale.
 
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