What engine oil do you prefer,??.
I am still trying to figure out why/how a synthetic oil could stop lifter rotation.... As I understand it, lifter rotation comes from the lifter's contact point with the cam being off of the center of the lifter axis.....can't think of anything else that causes it. How can a synthetic change the point of contact? And if it reduces the turning friction between lifter and lobe, it also reduces the drag trying to prevent rotation at the pushrod contact at the rocker and lifter.
Crane and Crower and Lunati don't want you to use synthetics 'during break-in'. Comp does not seem to care and says their break-in additive is compatible with synthetics. I have not personally had any issues with synthetics and have raced on them a lot with excellent results (in harsh endurance racing: rallying). But, I have never seen any real degree of wear reduction on cams/lifters with synthetics similar to what is consistently found on rings/pistons/bores and on bearings/journals.
Exactly. No one said ANYTHING about using synthetic for break in. Guys are just making crap up. No oil will stop lifter rotating. Cams are going flat because guys are buying oils that do NOT have zinc. ALL ( and I mean ALL TRUE) racing oils have zinc in them. Even for guys running rollers, the rings and exhaust guides still like zinc.
So here is some FREE info on oils that anyone could find if they really wanted to know. It's FREE so take it for what you are paying for it (FWIW I don not sell oil in any brand but I have tested several, see my earlier post).
I doesn't matter how LONG you go between drain intervals with a synthetic base stock oil. The base oil does NOT wear out. What REALLY happens is that the additive package (detergents, dispersants, pour point modifiers, viscosity index improvers and the like) get used up. They are gone, The base stock can no longer stay clean because the additives are gone. If you use an oil that the OIL MANUFACTURER has developed to go longer drain intervals, they have used more additive package to the oil to make it last longer. Most RACING oil have enough additive to go longest than no racing oils, although some (Redline comes to mind) don't use any detergents in their racing oils, so they are not even streetable. I avoid those oils like the plague.
There is more to oil than it looks like. Using diesl oils in an automotive application is not a good thing, though many do it. It has a totally different additive package just for the soot makers.
I suggest to the OP that he spend several dozen hours ON THE PHONE with ANY oil manufacturer he can get on the phone. Ask ANY question you can think of, take notes, read the notes over later and call them back to clarify or ask more questions. The oil people, like the cam grinders, would much rather you CALL them and talk to them than go on the internet and ask an idiot like me for information.