Overheating issues with remanufactured 360

There is absolutely no reason for your 360 to be overheating,at idle.Except maybe those teensy fans.Even if they had adequate CFMs, there is no place for the air to go. Not only do they have to pull air through the condenser and the rad, but then they have to push the air up against the engine, turn 90* and then try to find an exit. And then they have to fight eachother yet.You are asking way to much of them.

I have run 11.2cr with the 292purple cam, TTIs,a 7# cap, and a 195 stat. I run an A/C rad circa 1973. I am currently running a Hughes HE3238 @ 10.7cr. I bet it could idle a very long time with no fan at all on it. But..........I run a thermostatic clutch-fan and a 7-blade cuz I had them. The engine is un-overheatable as a streeter.

If, in fact, yours is overheating at idle,(as proven with an IR gun),this is what I'd do; I'd start at the top of the list and retest after each item,until you achieve success.
1) Make sure the engine is running some decent idle-timing;say 14*, Prove the stat, prove the belt is not slipping, prove the heat-riser is free, and the mufflers/pipes are flowing.
2) Make sure air can get through the condenser and rad.Remove those fans and the shroud.Put a light back there and have a second person get eyes on the front side. Move the light all around, everywhere. If the light doesn't come through, do you imagine air will? But lets suppose it passes the light test.
3) Put a direct drive steel fan on there with a shroud.As many blades as you can find.With a good pitch on them.If it doesn't fit,make it. I know you spent money on your current set-up, but it's not working,right? I have spent thousands on things that didnt work out as I'd hoped.That's rodding.
4) Make sure the water-pump drive ratio is right. If you're not buzzing 7000rpm,get the water pump spinning.And while you're there, put a hi-volume pump on there or put an anti-cavitation plate on the impeller.
5) put straight water in there, with a WP additive.Or if you're rich you can try the water-wetter.
6) get fresh cold air to the carb. I'd do this anyway. To not do so is give up power,economy and driveability.
That's what I'd do.
Now, after you have a nice stable temp, you can go back and try backing up some of the steps. Say by running anti-freeze.Or a thermostatic clutch, etc.
Happy hunting, and good luck

And BTW; whats with those cam specs? Does it really have more duration on the intake side than on the exhaust? OEM iron heads like 5 to 10 degrees more on the exhaust side, especially with iron ex.manifolds.