US CAR TOOL Frame Connector Questions

I welded mine on with the car on the ground using 4 jackstands. One pair under the rearend and the other under the front K-member attaching bolts.

My car has the 4 torque box plates from the factory. I had to slot the rear ones to fit the US Cartool frame stiffeners up onto the frame and then welded them closed.

Make sure you mark a line where the e-brake cable runs, so you can drill a hole like the first responding poster did. The fuel lines can pass through the connectors at the opening near the front of the connector. I had plenty of room for feed and return there. I also made a custom cross-over using the Summit exhaust kit.

Obviously I removed the front seats and carpet, ground down to clean metal along the underside of floor pan where they would be welded, and did about an hour of grinding per side to get them tight up against the floor. Once the bars are tack welded into the correct place, saved myself a lot of time by using a large rubber mallet to close up some of the remaining gaps by pounding the floor down a millimeter or two along the sub-frame connector. Once welded up completely, I used 50 year black roof flashing caulking to seal the welds on the underside. It was the paintable type.

Do yourself a favor and at the least add the front frame logitudinal brace. The one that goes just under and behind the radiator, but before the swaybar. Once you add that, you'll want to add the under fender shock tower braces and weld your shock towers solidly to the inner fenderwells.

Adding the subframe connectors is the best bang for the buck. However, if you are in a position to add the entire frame stiffening kit from US Cartool, go for it. It totally transforms the entire car and eliminates cowl shake.