360 compression issues. pick a piston??

Ok heres another way of looking at it and can be somewhat easier.And is what I would do. I would let the engine pick the cam.
I would build a zero deck short block. I would calculate the Scr using the FelPro .039s for a tight quench, and your favorite heads. From the Scr,I would back-calculate to get the ICA from the Dcr that I have previously figured out will work; with the parameters of gas, and altitude. And finally, I would choose the fastest rate of lift cam I could find that will make the numbers I might be after, and that the heads demand, using that ICA as written in stone.

To illustrate this, I'll throw some theoretical numbers at you; lets say your 360 comes in at .040 overbore, and the stroke remains at 3.58, and the rods come in at 6.120. This makes 367 cubes, and a piston swept of 752cc. Lets assume 5cc for eyebrows,8.6 in the gasket and 58cc in the aluminum head. That total chamber volume computes to 71.6cc. So the Scr will be (752 + 71.6)/71.6 = 11.50
Ok now, from the forum talk and by personal experience, I know that 91E10 will support 8.5 to 9.2 Dcr.( I am successfully running 8.6 on 87E10, at 900 ft above sealevel) Since I want the most bang for the buck, Ima gonna push the edge at 9.0. Going to the Dcr calculator with all these numbers,I find an ICA of 63* at sealevel, will do it.Shazzam! (And if you are at other than sealevel(duh), each 1000ft may require a reduction of 2* in the LCA .That makes about 61* at 2000ft.)
So now we shop for a cam that has an installed ICA ,that we have just determined. Call your favorite cam-grinder and tell him you want such, on a fast rate of lift cam. He will ask you a bunch of questions, to arrive at a duration, lift and LDA, that will satisfy your needs.
And if perchance we aimed a little high on the ICA, you still have recourse.You can; 1)go to a higher octane gas, or 2) reduce the intake air temperature,or 3) reduce the combustion chamber temperature,or 4)retard the cam,or 5) retard the timing, or 6)add octane booster,or 7)add water injection,or 8) upsize the cam adding some ICA, or 9) grind a few ccs out of the piston crowns.. Lots of options.You are in no wise stuck. Also, bear in mind the engine needs just enough octane to suppress knock at full load WOT. More helps not a bit. And If you build an engine to require 91 at full load-WOT, then when cruising or on the primaries it may never require more than 87, or 81, or 60...who knows!

As to the actual build;
I would do a minimum of machining. Of course boring is a must.And crank grinding is usually a must as well. But I would check the decks for straightness, and if there was any way possible to not shave them I wouldn't. I would drop in the crank on new bearings and torque it up. If it turns, I'm not letting anyone ever talk me into an align-hone, period. Here are the reasons why; It's way too easy for a shop to wreck a sbm block by an error in setting up for the align-hone. When this happens the rear mainseal may no longer seal. That is a really sad thing to discover, after the engine is in the car.I imagine there are shops that can do a perfect job, I just have not found one. As to the decks; if you cut them, it leads to more machining costs to get the intake ports to line up, and a tremendous chance that things can go wrong.
Instead, what I would do is, get custom fit pistons to put the crowns exactly up at the decks.KB has several options. I'm guessing other suppliers do too.In the end those off the shelf KBs plus fitting, will probably cost you less than having to machine everything in sight,PLUS you will not have fitment issues with the intake.BONUS.
Ok, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.