So you are using the same balancer.
And still no confirmation that the TDC mark was ever proved with the piston stop method.
What was the definition of insanity again? Oh I remember, doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.
Having said that, I must admit, I don't think you have a serious timing issue.
You have a serious A/F issue on the low speed circuit.
Here's what I would do;
1) Defeat the vacuum advance circuit and crank the dizzy 'til the engine idles as smooth as it gets and lock it down.Make sure the PCV system is functional.
2)yank the carb off, flip it over and set the T-port sync with the idle speed screw.The transfer slot should look like a little square,to slightly rectangular, below the throttle plate. After this do not move it.
3) flip it upright,remove the front float bowl and the power valve. Install a power valve plug, thereby eliminating that circuit. Put it back together and re-install it.
4) set the mixture screws to 1.5 turns from lightly seated.
5)fire it up. If the idle is too slow,use the secondary cracking screw to make changes.Adjust the mixture screws as may be required.
6) put a vacuum gauge on it. If you are still below the previously stated 5 inches(?), I would suspect an intake valve issue. Time for a leakdown test to see if they are fully closing.
7) when all tests are completed and the idle issue is resolved,you will need to re-install the PV or replace it, and fix the timing. This is an idle/low speed tuning test only.You can drive it like this,but it won't go very fast, and it wont take much throttle before hiccuping.
Or you could just do the leakdown test first. But it's a lot cheaper to buy a PV plug than an LD tester