Decide which valve cover you want to pull (some have more addons to deal with). If Dr VC then turn crank till the dampener slit is at TDC with rotor is at #6 plug wire. If Pass VC then turn crank till dampener slit is at TDC with rotor at #1 plug wire. pull the plugs to make for easier turning with the 1&1/4 socket/breaker bar. with the breaker bar move the dampener till the rocker arms on either the #1 or the #6 cyl you are working with are at the same height (amt of open or closed). go back & forth a bit till you get it (the height) dead on. at that point the dampener slit must be within a degree or two of TDC on the timing marks. this will confirm (hopefully) that you are good dot to dot and there ain't no gross errors in the crank keyway (wouldn't be that IF it ran OK prior to rebuild ex for being worn out) or the new timing gear keyway slot or where the dot was (mis)stamped or if a person used the wrong dot or a cam can be fubared (rare tho). If its off then open her up. If we are good on this then back up the dampener slightly to 15 BTDC & install dist with can on pass side with room to be turned and the magnet lined up dead even with the tooth and if you are doing rockover on the #1 rocker arms then install dist bottom tang so the rotor is facing rearward and if rockover on #6 then have the rotor pointing forward. eyeball if the rotor is under or fairly close to being centered under the cap terminal. if forward plug in #1 plug wire there and if rearward plug in #6 plug wire there. This covers cam phasing, dist timing. Holler back which how it goes, I'm ready for some breakfast & coffee! EDIT if you are a (tchain) tooth off then you'd need to open it up & move the cam. I ain't thinking that, but a vac leak keeps hitting me the more I think