Sons 300m and I need help please!

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I know you saw 50lbs on the Schrader valve, my Pontiac did the same thing. I had the fuel filter changed on the last oil change. The place billed me for it, it was one of those quick oil change businesses. I was in a hurry. They didn't and the motor died. I thought it was the pump, bought a new one and a filter just to be safe. It was the filter! The original GM was still in it. About the same mileage as yours and same symptoms.
 
That is odd. Is there a way to test the fuel 'flow' aside from the pressure?
I would hate to replace the pump/filter blind.

After I check the compression, my plan is to go to injector test with noid set.
If all is well, I will go to Cam Sensor test, Crank Sensor, then to the Automatic Shut Down relay (ASD).
After that, I am at a loss where to go?
 
It's surprising me that there's no codes. even if the battery died and wiped what codes were there they should've reappeared when the motor was turned over trying it again...

Check your grounds to the PCM and TCM....

Look back through my threads...I had a huge problem with my wifes pacifica with the 3.5... doing all sorts of stupid S**T... Ended up being about a 10 cent fix. Check areas where the grounds connect to the "frame" rail.... This
 
I have had the cam sensor go bad on my Sebring. It did similar with just up and dying. Not setting a code. It is hit and miss with them setting a code when they go. The other thing you want to look at is to see that you are getting the 5v can bus voltage that make everything work. I have also run across a bad radio in the past and a bad O2 sensor that both pulled down the 5v signal so nothing worked and the ad did not run.
 
That is odd. Is there a way to test the fuel 'flow' aside from the pressure?
I would hate to replace the pump/filter blind.

After I check the compression, my plan is to go to injector test with noid set.
If all is well, I will go to Cam Sensor test, Crank Sensor, then to the Automatic Shut Down relay (ASD).
After that, I am at a loss where to go?

I'm not a mechanic and just giving my opinion and nothing more then that, I remembered when working for Chrysler our outside mechanic shop customers would be trying everything possible left, right and center to get a customers Chrysler to crank over, changing the ignition module changing this & that and nothing worked. Majority of the time it ended up being the sensor, anytime a customer called with this same scenario (which seemed to be quite common at the time)we sent them the sensor and problem was solved. I would check the sensors to give yourself piece of mind and Its probably more straight forward then killing yourself tearing everything else apart. Just my thought, as I said before I'm no mechanic.
 
Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Did the compression test last night.
Dry
135-145
Wet
150-165
They look good to me.
I noticed when you set the cams at the 12 o'clock mark, the passenger (right side) is in the neutral position. That is, no valves are open. However, getting the drivers (left side) in the same position (12 o'clock) the cam is at the top of the lobe. That is if you move it slightly left or right, it will 'drop' off the lobe.
Does this seem right? Shouldn't there be a spot (both cams in the timing marks) that they are slack?

P.S.
Note to all that use a scope to look in the cylinders to see what is going on.
When you install one of the camera end adapters, TAPE IT ON.
I did not and the right angle mirror fell off the end of the scope and laid on top of the piston for 90 minutes while I tried to hook it with a piece of wire while using the camera in the cylinder to see what I was doing. The back of my knees are killing me this morning.
I think that is Stupid Tax. I was stupid so I had to pay for it.
 
There is a wiring connector under the back seat that corrodes if it gets wet. Check there next. It is near the fuel pump access plug.
 
Thanks 69.
After work, I am going to set the timing belt again then head towards electrical.
I will get my son to remove the rear seat while I am testing the cam and crank sensors.
His car did come from the west side of the state. (Washington) where it is much wetter than it is here.
 
Next time ya lose something in a cylinder,neck down your shop vac to a small tube and vacuum it out. Easier on the back....
 
Next time ya lose something in a cylinder,neck down your shop vac to a small tube and vacuum it out. Easier on the back....
I will remember that.
My back is still sore.
Didn't work on it last night. Had to take a break.
Will put the timing all together and start the electrical sensor testing tonight.
Son is so optimistic that he went and bought the crank sensor last night.
He is sure that must be it since the timing / valves are good.
Only thing that we can find that might not send a code.
 
So
New Crank sensor, no change.
New Cam sensor, car will start but seems to run a little rough.
I will have to get the front end put together before I can run it more as the entire front is still open to the timing belt set so I could only run it for a little bit.
Fuel pressure is at 58 psi @ idle so that is good.
 
There have been issues with aftermarket cam and crank sensors. Chryslers seem to be pickier than others when it comes to using oem sensors. Glad to hear you got it to start again
 
I think it is done.
I put the front end together and started the car again.
Running very rough and sounds like a rod knock but the noise seems to be coming from the top end of the motor, not the bottom.
Not sure what it could be or if it is even worth trying to fix at this point.
Internals in that motor are hard to get to and I don't have the shop setup to drop the motor out the bottom.
I am at a dead loss. Hate to scrap the car but I don't know what to do next.
Son is devastated. If we scrap the car, wrecking yard will give us $100 or so.
That is a big loss on an immaculate 2001 300m. And then what to do about his transportation. He is 16, and started Running Start this year so he is in college and has a part time job and starts a new part time job Wednesday. Sometimes I hate being the responsible adult...
 
I had a 99 Durango 5.9L. The way the systems were wired in that, the front O2 sensor heating circuit could fail and cause some weird issues. I don't remember for sure but it tied into TPS and crank sensor if I remember correctly. It would NOT cause the Check engine light to come on and wouldn't store a code. Also the statement above about the system being sensitive to after market sensors was true on it also. May try disconnecting the front O2 and seeing if it runs better, it will cause a check engine light and throw a code but should throw it into the redundant settings, basically open loop operation. Not sure on your 2001 300, but on the Durango you could display "discreet" codes on odometer by holding the odometer reset and turning on the key.
 
I think it is done.
I put the front end together and started the car again.
Running very rough and sounds like a rod knock but the noise seems to be coming from the top end of the motor, not the bottom.
Not sure what it could be or if it is even worth trying to fix at this point.
Internals in that motor are hard to get to and I don't have the shop setup to drop the motor out the bottom.
I am at a dead loss. Hate to scrap the car but I don't know what to do next.
Son is devastated. If we scrap the car, wrecking yard will give us $100 or so.
That is a big loss on an immaculate 2001 300m. And then what to do about his transportation. He is 16, and started Running Start this year so he is in college and has a part time job and starts a new part time job Wednesday. Sometimes I hate being the responsible adult...

I'm sure you know someone with a cherry picker...they put those 3.5's in everything for 10+ years. you can't tell me that LKQ or a local pull a part can't find one with the same ECM/tuning that would swap into the car.
 
They will come out the top without too much issue
That looks like it is transverse mounted. Ours is the 3.5 HO that is mounted front to back.
Do you think it will come out the top as well?
All docs I have read said it goes out the bottom with the K member.
 
Mounted front to back would be even easier. I just barely had enough room on the passengers side to slide it over enough to clear the trans bellhousing. You will not have that issue.
 
So.
Got it running kinda. Was idling rough and then just stopped. Not sure how to explain it. It didn't shut off and putter to a stop, it just stopped. Like it was mechanically stopped.
I pulled the front of the motor off again and checked the timing belt / marks. All was good.
We started it again and there is a knocking coming from the top of the motor. Sounds like a rod but from the top end, not the bottom end.
I plan to remove the intake / valve covers this weekend and take a look.
In the mean time, looking for a new car for the kid. He is wrecked..
 
First I pulled the timing cover back off to check my marks, they were good. Then I did a compression and spark test after.
Motor still turns over fine.
Low cylinder is 150 high was 160 dry.
All cylinders jumped spark great at .065".
Also, rocker arm crossed my mind along with spring.
Motor is a 4 valve (2 in and 2 ex)
One of the springs or rockers could be broke and still get good compression I think.
Anyone have any thoughts on my logic? or lack of?
 
Common issues with these is loss of bus communication. You need to check 5V reference on all sensors to make sure one isn't shorting out. The most common problem is a crank sensor or PCM in my experience. Your Bosch scannner may not be able to read U codes for communication error. Sometimes you will get a "no bus" error code reading in the odometer, but not always.
 
Had a friend come over with his Snap-On Scanner. No codes, No comm issues, Everything looked good on it after we installed new Crank and Cam sensors.
 
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