Torque converter affecting idle question

What MR.mopowers means, is that you will have to fingerprint the cam to see how big or how little the cam is. This is useful information, upon which some better understanding can be gleaned from your combo.
Since you are not familiar with the process,and from some of your answers, I take it you are not really a gearhead.

Since an engine spends so much time at idle, and/or driving away from an idle, it is very important to get this idle figured out. I have a shortcut for you, that requires zero tools.

1) First,with the engine running, unhook the vacuum advance. If the idle speed did not change, then the vacuum advance was not active.
2) Set the T-port sync as described in post 8:The transfer ports should be square to very slightly rectangular (that is taller than wide) UNDER the butterflies.Once this is set do not change it; we will set the idle speed using another means. Completely close the secondary butterflies, but make sure that they do not stick closed.The carb has to be removed to set these.
If,after this is set,the engine idle is too slow in N/P then either the idle-timing is insufficient, or the engine wants more air from another source (such as the PCV, or the secondary cracking screw.) If the idle speed is too fast, the timing is too far advanced.
3) Make sure the PCV system is hooked up and working.
4) Start it up and warm it up. At this point the idle speed may need changing. The N/P idle speed should have fallen to between about 500 and around 900, using the above system. A small nearly stock cam will want to idle at 650 to 750. A raunchy street cam may like 900 or more. So,depending on the size of your cam, you will need to ballpark the idle speed in there somewhere.Since you didnn't mentioned idle problems at 500 in gear, Ima guessing the cam is stockish. So lets target a 750 rpm idle speed in N/P. So, loosen the dizzy hod-down bot a little bit, and grab the dizzy and advance the timing by pulling the V-can towards the front of the car. That would be CCW as viewed from the top. Just keep pulling, for as long as the engine rpm continues to rise. As long as the rpm is rising, the engine is liking it. Okay what rpm did this achieve?
If it is under the target 750; We are maxed on the timing, and nearly maxed on the primary cracking screw.If we need more rpm we are going to have to get it from the secondary cracking screw. But first how close are you and what is the quality of the idle? Fine tune the mixture screws. If the idle is 700 or more, perhaps we can get to target with up to 1 more turn of the curb-idle screw. But if that won't get it, put it back where you found it, and crack the secondaries instead.Do it.
But on the off chance that the idle speed has risen to more than the target 750,with the T-ports synced, and the secondaries closed, and the PVC working, and no vacuum leaks, then the only way to slow it down is to retard the timing, until the target is reached. Do it.
5) The in-gear idle test. Okay lets see what happens. One foot on the brake, pop it into manual low.