demon 340 wont start, no spark

I'm kinda in the market for a Demon. Running or not. Actually, just a roller, would be ok.
I know Rochester is a tad far from me, but if you trailer up here to my place, I'll look it over.
I'm kidding.
I'd just like to add, that, if it acts the same with both systems, and that the same coil is NOT used with both systems, then IDK.
Here is a real sneaky coil test, that's got me out of a pickle many a time; Just lay an 8" or longer flat-bastard file on a grounded-to-battery surface. Then take all the wires off the coil neg. terminal. Run a jumper from the coil neg. over to be long enough to drag over the file.Take the coil hi-tension wire out of the cap and near ground it to the engine; that is to say secure it with about a 1/4 inch gap to ground.Hang on to the jumper wire, and power up the coil(turn on the key to run). Here comes the cool part. Lightly drag the exposed bare wire of the jumper along the file. You should see a stream of sparks issuing from the hi-tension coil wire, as the jumper "makes and breaks" the low voltage connection. Please be sure to not burn your car down by accidentally setting the carb on fire.This works on all OEM type canister coils.Never tried it on an E-core.
I know; it's hard to imagine both coils being bad, but you gotta start somewhere.And by leaving all the wiring alone up to the coil plus terminal, you have just proven it's ok. But on the off chance that the coil plus is not receiving enough current, if the above test fails to wake up the coil, then jumper battery voltage over to it, and repeat the dragging wire test. Still no spark means coil is fubarred. If it sparks now, the wiring is compromised.
What I mean is; You can sent 11.8 volts through a wire .005 in size but it won't spark the coil.Your multi-meter will say "hey I got all the volts I need", but the electron flow is too small to accomplish any work.
Ps this looks really cool in the dark