Clutch not disengaging
Bushings? the plastic half pieces that sort of go around the ball studs? Mine aren't too bad. They're tight-ish. Yes, I do have the wire that holds the bushing and ball stud in place (the one closest to the frame rail. I did have to modify my z-bar for the Doug's headers and it's possible I screwed up.
Yeah, I think that's what the problem is. I may have got the angle wrong or something. Back to the drawing board.
No one seems to have pictures or a how-to it's all trial and error until it's right. I think the reason why people don't have pictures or a how to is because once they got it right, they left it alone and never looked at it again. lol
If the bushings are tight, and the ball-studs are secured and the wire retainer is correctly installed, and the fork is correctly installed on a solid pivot,and the anti-rattle spring is on, then there should be very little slop. Very little.-----------------
I think you're right about the last part! I'm as guilty as anyone. But I sorta have an excuse; My project was finished about 2004, and I never heard about this forum 'til maybe 2013"ish. And since I wasn't documenting anything, I took very few pics.Even only got a couple of the finished car with it's brand new paint. Heck,I didn't even have a computer 'til just before I joined here!------------------------
If I had to rephase my Z-bar, I think I would cut the tube in half, and insert a tight-fitting pin in there. Then reinstall it. Then follow Del's plan, getting everything adjusted to where it needs to be. Then index that cut-line, and finally weld it back up.If you cut it in just the right place, it might be possible to just reverse it, index it and weld it.
I gotta say tho, that even with my very tight-fitting TTIs, the factory Z-bar only required a slight tweak for it to work.The Dougs IDK, but I can't recall anyone else ever remarking about a Z-bar issue. Still,a guy's gotta do, what a guy's gotta do.